The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Mounting Engine on Stand

I am getting a 216 this weekend and need to mount it on an engine stand. The issue is that I don't have a hoist and the guy delivering it is bringing one to lift it off the truck. The second issue is that the tranny is attached.

I am going to remove the tranny while it's on the lift so I can mount it to the stand. I need to know what size bolts I should use to mount the motor to the stand. I won't know until I remove the tranny. I would like to know ahead of time so this guys doesn't have to wait on me while I go to the hardware store to get bolts. Any body have an idea of size and length needed?

I recall using 3/8" grade 8 bolts for my 250. The length depends on the engine stand, mine has 2" standoffs. The flanges on the engine are about 3/4" thick, so figure something in the 3" to 4" length. They're cheap, buy a bunch of different lengths.

-Boyo

The bolts that hold the tranny to the bellhousing are the same thread and diameter as 235 head bolts, but I don't remember what size that is.

Hmmmm...If I remember correctly, the head bolts on mine were 1/2" not 3/8". I'll double check that. Maybe my service manual will have something on it.

I'm pretty sure the head bolts are 1/2", but I'm also pretty sure the engine-to-tranny bolts are 3/8" for the 250 and 235. I've actually not worked on a 216, guess I'm assuming they're the same...

-Boyo

I would be inclined to believe the bolts are the same for a 216. Any idea how hard it is to take off the transmission and bell housing/clutch?

The bellhousing to engine bolts are smaller than the transmission to bellhousing bolts.

I'm sure the head bolts and tranny bolts are the same because I used a pair as guide pins last time I installed a SM420, into my 1950 bellhousing that was installed on a 216.

The transmission and bellhousing are fairly easy to remove but you have to take the flywheel off to get the bellhousing off. The transmission is a 4 bolt affair and shouldn't be hard. You have to keep the flywheel from turning and take off the pressure plate bolts and flywheel bolts, which can be a pain. I use a pair of vise grips to cinch an old V-belt around the harmonic balancer and attach the free end to something strong, like the generator bracket.

The bolts are 7/16 course thread,the length is dependent on the stand set up.I say any common bolt will work, grade 8 is just more money.I rebuilt 3 stovebolt engines using what ever bolts I found laying around. You're threading into cast iron which will break long before the bolt ever does.A 3/8 non graded threaded rod can support 500 lbs in shear or tension,the grade 2 bolts at the hardware store are generally forged with rolled threads,more than adequate, grade 5 will triple insurance.

I just did this last night on a 1954 - 235 which has sat for years and was frozen up. Because it was frozen I took the head off first then I took off the starter, then the sheetmetal along the bottom front of the bellhousing, then the two bolts from the case to the bellhousing. then luckily I got it to turn over by using oil and wd40 in the pistons and a crow bar on the flywheel. Once it started moving it was a snap to remove the clutch, then the flywheel then the two bolts behind the flywheel. All in all I was amnazed that it came apart so easily. I had to use a breaker bar on the head but everything else was no prob.

I'm confused 4onthefloor.

You say you have to take the flywheel off to get the bellhousing off. That doesn't make sense to me.

I assume you would:

1. Take the tranny off
2. Take the pressure plate off
3. Take the flywheel off

Isn't this the true order of removal?

I think that is what 41ChevyTrucker is saying. They only thing I'm confused about there is the two bolts behind the flywheel.

REMEMBER: I will have the engine completely out of the truck. I was hoping this would be easily removed with an impact wrench. The engine may be locked up. Not sure.

Guys, am I missing anything on the removal? Anything tricky?

What they are telling you is that the bolts behind the flywheel hold the bell housing on. Therefore to get the bell housing off, you have to remove the flywheel first.

If you haven't done this before, note that the flywheel bolt heads are very shallow and you need a good six point socket to do the job. Also, this is an excellent project for skinning knuckles!

I needed an impact wrench to remove my flywheel bolt and used heat from a propane torch.