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#355170 01/02/2008 2:00 AM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Just wondering if anyone has replaced the wood block that's sandwiched between the front cowl,and the cab floor. They are held in place by three flush mounted screws. Mine have some free-play in them, and the wood seems to be dry rotted. I can tell these screws will be hell to get out. Where is this wood available, or should I use some type of plastic? Does the cab spread apart when you remove the old wood? Anybody "been there done that"?. Thanks for any help.


Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
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Dave Giorgi
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Dave Giorgi
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There is a kit from "JIM CARTER" and I believe "THE FILLIN STATION" has these also.

#355415 01/02/2008 6:19 PM
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Thanks Dave, I guess I missed it in the Carter book. Have you ever replaced these?


Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
D
Dave Giorgi
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Dave Giorgi
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Yes, I have. There are several ways to do this if the bolts are stuborne.Clean the threads as best you can apply a penetrant every day for about a week and give it a try with a hand held impact driver. If that doesn't work the most agressive approach is to cut the wood block in half through the center or horizontaly. First support the body, cowl and door before doing this. A couple of wood or brass wedges work well. Now use a saws all or suitable tool to cut the block horizontally. The screws can be removed from the top. The bottom or plate with the screws still attached can be removed from the bottom. Remove the wood and with the plate in a vise you can use vise grips to remove the cut off bolts still in the plate. Or drill and re-tap the plate taking care not to damage the threads. I think you can buy new replacement bolts with the wood from the above vendors. If you want you can make a new plate from stainless or replace the bolts with stainless steel. I think stainless steel replacements are offered by the same vendors although I am not sure. I think the steel plate is also offered from them as well but only in mild steel. First remember to have the parts handy for immediate replacement. Also work you way from mild to wild in the removable process. When all else fails, use the cut in half method. Hope this helps, let me know how it goes. I am sure there are others who can offer some help here as well. Dave.

#355525 01/02/2008 11:45 PM
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'Bolter
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I used penetrating oil for a few days then my handheld impact driver to loosen mine. It took many strikes with a 3 lb sledge hammer to break them loose. I ordered replacement wood & bolts from Jim Carter I believe.


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Thanks guys, I am a little concerned about supporting the body. The doors are off and it's sitting on a dolly I made from an old piece of scaffolding. Would it be better to try and take the weight off the floor structure by slightly lifting the cab, say with a cherry picker? I was also thinking of welding a nut to the slotted end of the screws if the impact driver dosen't work. Usually a little heat does wonders too, but I hate to burn them out! Thanks for the advice. Jeff


Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.
D
Dave Giorgi
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Dave Giorgi
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OK,heat usually works and welding the nuts on is an excellent idea. I never had to resort to that or even cutting of the bolts and wood. All the ones I replaced were removed with the penetrating oil and an impact driver. Good luck and let us know how you made out. Dave.

#355730 01/03/2008 5:52 AM
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Dave Giorgi
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Dave Giorgi
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OH I forgot to add, I was refering to the 36 low cab models. I was assuming the 37's are the same. I never have done a 37 but the wood parts and screws should still be available. Sorry hope I didn't mislead you. Dave.

#355948 01/03/2008 8:06 PM
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Not at all Dave, I appreciate your input!


Just because you have a few Craftsman tools, it dosen't mean your a craftsman.

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