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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 171 | My '54 likes to make a grinding noise when shifting gears. It doesn't happen all the time, though. For example I sometimes get a grinding noise when I shift into first from neutral when stopped at a stop sign. Perhaps this is operator error and I'm not pushing the clutch in all the way--but it nevertheless got me thinking about the clutch system.
So I'm looking at my service manual, and the section titled "Adjustment -- Free Pedal Travel" talks about adjusting the clutch pedal so you get 3/4" to 1" of "free pedal travel". What exactly does "free pedal travel" mean? When I push the clutch pedal down with my fingers, it feels pretty solid right away. But from a resting position I can pull the pedal towards the seat about 3/4". So am I ok or do I need to make an adjustment? My truck is missing the felt floor seals, so I'm also wondering if that would mess up my measurement.
The way I figure it, as the clutch disk continues to wear down, the clutch pedal (in its resting position) will be pushed out closer to the bench seat. This means I should be fine as long as there is some free play in the pedal, even if that free play is pulling the pedal towards the bench instead of pushing it towards the floor.
Thanks in advance for your input. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Greg,
There should be a stop that won't allow the pedal to ever get closer to the seat...only to the stop.
The "free pedal travel" it the movement of the pedal (and associated linkage) BEFORE the throwout bearing touches the clutch release fingers (pressure plate). This 'slack', which is adjusted by you, and kept in tension by the hefty clutch return spring is there to make sure the throwout bearing isn't riding on the pressure plate. This constant turning if adjusted improperly would wear the bearing out in short order.
Provided your clutch return spring is on and in good order, you should be able to push the pedal down with your hand and feel the 3/4"--1" movement before it becomes hard as it bumps up against the pressure plate.
This is the only adjustment there is, and it's for the sake of the throwout bearing. If things don't work properly when this is adjusted to specs, it time for a clutch/pressure plate transplant.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | It sounds like your adjustment is fine but the return spring is missing. It is normal for it to grind going into first or reverse gear. There are no syncros on 1st in this trans. If your grease in the trans. is too thin it will make it worse. Before shifting into 1st or reverse shift partway into 2nd. or 3rd. & then complete the shift. This stops the clutch disc & trans. shaft. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 171 | Thanks for the information guys. Is there a picture somewhere that shows where the return spring is attached to the engine or frame? I see in the service manual how the spring attaches to the linkage, but the other attachment point is out of the picture.
Also, I guess I'll have to double clutch or follow wrenchbender's suggestion about how to avoid the grinding. For something that make such a noise, you'd think there would be some information about this in the owner's manual (maybe there is, but I didn't see it). | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 171 | Ok, I found where the spring is supposed to go. I must have been looking somewhere else because it is right there in plain view on the frame rail. Sorry for asking before looking... | | |
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