The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 tear-down questions

Okay, I'm stumped.

I assume the pulley is pressed onto the water-pump shaft, right? Seems simple enough if it is.

But the big (heavy) question is how is the flywheel attached to the crankshaft? I've got the six bolts out but the flywheel ain't budging.

I promise I'll make up all this free advice I'm getting by answering body work questions... something I know SOMETHING about.

The flywheel is a close fit on the crankshaft flange, not quite a press, but it sometimes takes a little persuasion to get it off. Try a couple of pry bars, one on each side of the flywheel, and rock it off a little at a time. Be sure to have someone there to catch it as it falls, as it might release suddenly- - - -and just where were your toes? That flywheel is heavy, and the starter ring gear makes funny-looking marks in a concrete floor. Don't ask me how I know that!
Jerry

I usually stick a pry bar into the back of the crank shaft area so the flywheel catches in the bell housing without dropping. Only works if the bell housing is still attached for support on the back side. The flywheels do fit tight, but that is a good thing. Good luck if on auto transmission setup.

As others have said, the flywheel is a tight fit on the crankshaft, but under normal circumstances, a light tap on the front loosens it so you can work it off. In your case, it may have a rust bond, but you should be able loosen it by tapping on the front side, then turn it and tap on the diameter to loosen it evenly. These should be fairly heavy taps, but you aren't trying to break everything with one blow... so go accordingly. Keep working that way, a little at a time, until it loosens. Then you can work it off by hand. I would recommend wearing gloves while you handle the flywheel- the teeth are sharp if you lose your grip on it.

Harvester

I don't think you can get the bellhousing off without removing the flywheel first... at least that's what I was told. That's the whole reason for removing the flywheel, to get the bellhousing off.

I think you are correct about the bell housing. If I remember correctly, there are two retaining bolts for the housing that are inaccessable, or at least very difficult to reach, with the flywheel in place. Its been a while since I took a bell housing off one of those engines, but flywheel removal was pretty common because careless or inexperienced drivers would often burn out the clutch and destroy the flywheel in the process. Then complain about a $100 clutch job (1950's prices).

Harvester

Yea, I just bought a page from a 1952 DuPont paint book and someone had added up their paint cost on the back... $23.47

Woody

I have swapped bellhousing, flywheel & clutch from 216 motor to 235 motor. You have to remove all the clutch bolts and then remove clutch and pressure plate. Flywheel is mounted on to some 4-5 metal guides from the motor. Pry slowly or use blow hammer. There will be four bolts inside the bell housing.

Ganesh

Ganesh,

The clutch was out when I got it so I was at least spared that work. I'm hoping this engine will go into my '51 but I want to get it off the cradle and onto a stand so I can have a look at its bottom end so the bellhousing has to come off to get it on the stand.

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Woody

Be careful, that 235 is long and heavy, and some of the stands designed to hold V-8's can tip over easily when a 235 is bolted onto them. That happened in my school shop a few years ago, and a kid got some broken toes when the engine smashed his foot. Shop rules specify heavy work shoes, not sneakers, or he would have probably lost a few toes.
Jerry

Woody,

If you had 216 before in your 51, then you need to buy modified water pump from patricks for about 135 bucks, otherwise the fan will hit the radiator. To do any work with engine for about 150 bucks buy a engine crane, you can do so much with it. It helps a lot and your life become so much easier.

Ganesh

Ganesh,

I'm pretty sold on the adapter plate conversion to center the water pump so I'm going to go that way, but thanks for taking the time to respond.

Oh, and big "Roger that" on the engine hoist, at my age I need all the help I can get.

You guys got me!! After reading the comments about the fly wheel coming off before removing the bell housing, I realized that no one will ask me to come over to play now.

Yes, the pulley is pressed on the water pump shaft and not likely to come off without damaging it. Although I didn't damage mine (The idiot at the engine reman shop broke the pulley trying to pry the pump off the block; not realizing that it was attached to an adapter plate which he didn't remove first.)

Don