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#350843 12/20/2007 9:34 PM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11
B
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11
Ok guys...I'm new to the painting world and trying to take baby steps. I recently purchased a 1947 Chevy Pickup that has seen way too many coats of paint in it's 60 year life...with the last being the worst. Applied extremely heavy, with lots of runs, severe orange peel and paint all over the molding and rubber. Bottom line is that I have alot of sanding to do.

I would like to keep this thing driveable, as much as possible. So, I'm figuring to work on small sections at a time, sanding down an area, performing any necessary repairs or replacements, then primering the area to protect it. Once everything is done over the course of say...two years...then I would have it professionally painted.

As for the sanding, I don't have to take it down metal if the lower layers are sound, but there are large sections that have chipped off that show I have alot of material to remove.

Here is my issue. I have never painted with anything other than small parts using a rattle can. I have a compressor, and will be buying a paint gun and air/water seperator. Tools won't be an issue. But reading all these posts, I'm a little confused.

1) If I sand down to metal, what do I apply over the metal that will also protect for the duration? Self etching primer? Epoxy Primer? Or is it a combination of multiple primers?

2) If I sand down to a lower layer and it looks sound, with minimal metal showing, then what primer do I use? I will still need some primer since I'm sure some metal will be exposed.

3) Do I need a fresh air respirator for spraying primer? Or is a cartridge unit satisfactory as long as I have good ventilation? (I plan on using the cartridge respirator for all the sanding to keep the dust inhaled to a minimum.)

Sorry this was long winded.

Need some guidance...Where is Yoda when you need him? smile

Rick

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 94
C
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 94
Hi Rick,
I can help a little bit, and I'm sure what I don't cover, one of the other guys can. If you do end up going down to bare metal, make sure you use a direct to metal primer. Also, you should really seal it after you primer it. If you let it sit in primer until you get it painted, it will more than likely rust through. Trust me. I've had it happen before and know people that have also had it happen to them. Anyway, hope this helps you out a bit, and good luck!! smile


~Jenny

"Custom can't be bought. It's achieved one cut at a time."

1950 Chevrolet 3100 1/2-Ton

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9
S
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9
Hi rick
Your truck sounds to be in the same state as mine was. I started sanding,sanding and sanding. I was then advised to try stripper. Man what a difference. It takes the same amount of time, but much less effort. plus cleaner. hope this helps

Matt

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 119
D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 119
Autobodystore.com has a ton of information about DIY paint and body work. Grab a cup of joe and click on classroom.


[b]1957 Chevy Big Window 3100[.b]

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It ain't broke 'til you can't fix it any more.
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 154
W
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 154
Instead of sand blasting get a D A sander with eighty grit paper. This will strip the old finish down to bare metal fast. then sand with fine sand paper and then prime with a primer for adhearing to bare metal. The primer I have been using is a new hybred primer. Good adheasion with a primer designed to build or spray on allowing a good heavy thick ( several coats ) coating. then after it is allowed to cure & dry it can sanded to a nice smooth finish. This process can be repeated several times if needed to fill in all the small pits and inprofections.

All this sounds simple but it can be a quite involed process. The D A sander requires a good size air compressor but would allow you to do your vehicle in smaller projects and elimate the sand blasting.

Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
4 Offline
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
If you aren't going to paint it yourself, you really aren't going to be saving any money by doing this. You first need to find a pro painter, and pretty much every one of them is going to want to remove your primer and start fresh or they aren't going to guarantee the work. Pro painters either want a factory finish to start with or a bare metal truck (usually by a stripper, they don't want a rusty bare metal truck). Otherwise there is no guarantee the paint will even stick, especially with a truck that has been piecemeal primered.

Last edited by 4ontheFloor; 12/27/2007 9:41 AM.

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