The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay engine runs, then quit while idling, now will only run with starter engaged

Ok, so my long dormant 61 apache is running, and idling just great....gets up to running temp, and warm enough to switch off the choke and let her run.
Up until now, I would get in the truck, flip the ignition toggle switch (previous owner replaced key switch with a toggle switch and a push button start switch). The generator light would work and stay on (thought it was a bad generator), the heater would work, the temp gauge would work as did the temp gauge. Push the start button , and she'd kick right over.
Now, I was running the engine today getting it up to running temp (I was installing an oil pressure gauge), and the engine cut out and died, just out of the blue. I got in the cab to restart and No generator light, no temp gauge reading, no fuel gauge reading, no heater fan..Nothing....Now, if I get under the hood, and put a screwdriver across the starter solenoid (attached to starter), the engine will run while it is cranking, but as soon as I let go of the screwdriver starting position (not bridged across the contacts), it dies. Dash shows no activity...etc etc.
So, the engine will run, but only when the starter is engaged...and dash gauges/no worky!
So, is this a voltage regulator? the fuses all look good....and the voltage regulator looks kinda rusty and horrible...

so what say the electrical gurus?
thanks
Kevin

likely a bad ignition resistor, replace it

Bill

Kevin,

Is this the rig that sat under the tree for many moons? I looked at a wiring diagram of a '61 GMC. I don't know if the Chevrolet has all the same details, but there is a 6 way wire connector located on the drivers side firewall. Could this have corrosion or mouse crap in/on it...

If your rig has a ballast or some type of ignition resistor, I don't see how that would involve the instruments in the dash. It looks like that connector powers not only the gauges, but also supplies power to your ignition toggle switch.

If your rig has these connectors, you might pull them, clean them and shoot some type of WD-40 or something on them. It's worth a try.

Stuart

Yes, I do have one of those connectors, I will clean it and give that a try.
Do you think I should replace my voltage regulator?
thanks
kevin

Kevin,

The voltage regulator might be bum, but I don't see it as a suspect in this problem. Get the truck starting properly again, then address the charging system. It might not be the regulator..it could be the generator, or merely a broken or corroded wire.

What you don't want to do is start replacing things without troubleshooting and determining what's wrong first..unless your brother-in-law is Bill Gates.

The gauges and most other items on your rig feed from the BATT lug on the solenoid. This would normally be a straight shot into the system, but in your case it looks like they have used firewall connectors as a pass-through.

Dink around with your new toy and get to know it. Maybe it just needs some TLC to wake it from its long sleep.

Stuart

Get a test light & start traceing the system. See if you have curent at the toggle switch. Then turn the switch on & see if you have curent on the other term. You have a bad connection somewhere in the system. The voltage regulator does not effect this. It controls the operation & output of the generator. After you get it running get a volt/ohm meter & put it across the bat. terms or junction block. With a well charged battery, accelerate the engine & read the volt meter. It should read 14-14.5 volts. This indicates the gen. & regulator are working.

Ok, the plot thickens!
I went out to the truck today, and just for grins, I connected up the battery, and went in and switched on the ignition....sure enough, generator light is on....pushed the start button, and wouldn't you know it, she started right up!
fuel gauge worked, temp gauge worked, just as it should.
So, I figured it was just a fluke....well, sure enough, just as it did last time, it was just warm enough to get ready to switch off the choke, and she died..just up and died. same symptoms, no power to the gauges, or ignition.....
So, I am thinking that the power to the dash is downstream of the starter motor solenoid, that it could be the culprit.....just a thought..
what do you think?
thanks
Kevin

You have a bad connection in the main feed wires. It,s probably like Stuart says in the plug in in the firewall.

How about checking if you have power to the ing. points. with the distrubitor cap off and the key switch on check if you have power to the coil and at the contact breaker points. If so start it until it quits. Then check again before you turn the key switch off.
As said before You have a loss of power in the system. maybe even the key switch itself.

read above post, he is on it
Check the cap on the starter solenoid have two wires to either side of the main bat cable at the starter. see if they are loose and if possible check for a cracked cap on the starter solenoid.
One more thing that comes to mind, since you were moving the battery cables around while hooking up and or disconnecting the battery, look at the hot 10 guage wire coming off the POS. battery cable,,,,,You may find your culprit there.
.
.
Remembermm all electrical devices are powered by magic and smoke,, if you let the smoke out, the magic does not work anymore

okay, so I was looking at new starters for this truck.
In the advertisement online, it states:
warning: this starter will be damaged if operated in low voltage environment.
Could my non working generator be the culprit?
I had been running the engine with a generator that was not doing its job...
is this why?
I am buying a new starter and I will let you folks know of my progress.
cheers
Kevin

dash sw or wiring bad,,when shorting starter you have 12 volts to ing when you unshort sol your 12 volts stops so ing curcit from sw is bad...doc

Doc, sounds right,
what do you mean by sw?
thanks
(newbie)
Kevin

You previously stated that the PO had installed a toggle switch and push button starter switch. In order to do this he more than likely hacked up the wires under the dash. You are always going to have problems unless you install the correct ignition switch and straighten out the wiring that goes to it. I have seen a number of these "modifications" and assure you that none of them were done correctly.
Fred

ah, a great idea, I should remove the "ignition on/off" toggle switch, in addition to the "push button start", and replace it with a stock ignition switch?
I will look for the switch in the regular catalogs..
cheers
thanks for the advice.
cheers
Kevin

HA!
what an update!
I went to go to the truck today with the intention of removing the starter to see what was wrong with it.
I opened the hood and I was checking out my steering shaft that is currently broken, and my eye was caught by the wiring harness just lying there on top of the steering shaft.
Yep, sure enough, the main bundle of wires from the voltage regulator going to the firewall had become unplugged.
That was the cause alright, because I plugged it back in and wouldn't you know it, she started right up!
Anyone have a line on a replacement plug at the firewall? I need both ends, the male and female.
thanks
Kevin