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#345663 12/07/2007 1:28 AM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
S
Certified Bolt Nut
Certified Bolt Nut
S Offline
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
Ok guys...I've given up on this one...

Before replacing my turn signal switch, the left turn signal would only come on if you held down on the switch. No problem I thought, I will just replace it with a brand new switch. So this weekend I pulled the wheel and replaced the entire switch. Upon working on something else yesterday I realized that now when I turn left, both rear signals come on (fronts are still correct). Then I realized that if I'm in the left turn position, and then go to the neutral position, they continue to blink (the left turn indicator light on the dash goes off). Only when I turn rt and then back to neutral do they go off. Being that the truck sat for 10 years, and the tail lights looked bad, I started in the back. If I unplug the tail light harness from the rear, everything seems to be ok. That would tell me that it’s something behind that. That is where I'm at now...my question is, if the switch is in the neutral position, how can anything beyond the rear harness cause problems? I have seemed to narrow it down to something in the back, but it baffles me. Thanks

O
OLTrucks
Unregistered
OLTrucks
Unregistered
O
Well a quick guess on this is you have a side feeding back up to your signal unit. Check out all your wiring in the rear and see if you still have the same trouble. Do you still have the stock wiring (colors)? If you don't have a shop manual let me know I look up the pin outs for you.
Mike

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
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Certified Bolt Nut
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Posts: 131
I just went back out and cut the back half of the harness out, and ran jumpers from the front half of the harness to each of the lights. Still weird! I only ran the jumper to the right turn signal...nothing else. I have RT turn, but when I turn on the left (that isn't even hooked up) the right continues to blink. The problem of it continuing to blink when I went from left turn to neutral is fixed, but with no apparent reason....I'm telling you...spirits are in my garage!!

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
It's not spirits, it's bad grounds.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
O
OLTrucks
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OLTrucks
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Yeah Charlie thats what he said it's spooky around his property. That kinda bad grounds?

Charlie sure has a good point there.

Mike

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
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Certified Bolt Nut
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
How about a bad "new" turn signal switch from LMC??? I dug through the trash and reinstalled the old switch...works fine (other than you have to hold down to turn left) I guess the assumption that all new parts are good jumped up and bit me. Now the question is did LMC pull the wrong parts, or is there something I can fix with this one and save the trouble of sending this one back. I had already checked the grounds, and I was actually getting a bad signal at the firewall....traced it all the way to the switch...the switch doesn't ground in the column does it? It's all plastic and doesn't seem able to inside the column.

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,002
L
Shop Shark
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Posts: 1,002
The switch is not grounded to the column. GM did change the color coding of the wire harness from 63 to 64 or 65. The color coding for 65 is DBL is r frt, LBL is left frt, DG is r rear, yel is l rear, white is brake in, PPl is flasher in.

Larry

Last edited by LGriffin; 12/07/2007 4:01 PM.

I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
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Certified Bolt Nut
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Posts: 131
Hey thanks, LMC is sending another new one free of charge...hopefully its correct. If its not I'll beforced to rewire it myself.

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
S
Certified Bolt Nut
Certified Bolt Nut
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 131
Well the new one came in...more of the same types of problems. After closer inspection the new harnesses were not wired the same as the original. They were both correct to themselves, but the part LMC sent isn't the same in this aspect. So I did what everyone would do, rewired one of them and pretty much made one good switch out of 2 new and 1 old one. After some fiddling, it works great. I didn't even have to cut a wire/ or break anything off. 8-) Now on to other things. Thanks for all the input.

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
C
Shop Shark
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Posts: 2,644
Ah, yet another one of those "bolts right on in an hour" gadgets available from your friendly parts vendor.


Woody
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