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#34416 11/26/2001 2:38 AM | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 2 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 2 | Hello I have a 55-2nd series 3800 series flatbed truck. It has the original 17.5 wheels which I am having trouble finding rubber for and worse yet a shop that will touch a split rim. I bought 4 16inch 8lug rims at a swap meet but now the truck looks small to me. Does anyone make a 17.5 non slpit rim? Thanks Junior | | |
#34417 11/26/2001 5:03 AM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 587 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 587 | If the 16" wheels fit on drums and clear everything, what's the problem? You just need bigger (taller) tires for trucks with high load range, not the wimpy light truck tires. I'm talking 80 or 85% height, not the 70 or 75 usual size. The 17.5 tire will cost more for one or two than all the 16" tires will cost you, then that's IF you can find any.
G.L. Grumpy's Old Iron Ranch Huntington, IN 46750
MM R tractor, Speedex and Power King tractors
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#34418 11/26/2001 6:50 AM | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | I just sold my last set of 1 piece 17.5" rims. I do have a set of 19.5" 1 piece rims with the clips for the orig. hubcaps. Both of these sets of rims came off 55-59 Napco converted trucks, so your best bet is to locate an old converted 4x4 for these hard to find rims. | | |
#34419 11/26/2001 10:43 PM | Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 1 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 1 | I'm having similar problems. I have a 1951 GMC 3/4 ton and the PO put on some really cheesy chrome wheels. I'd like to find some original looking solid rims, but the 8 lug deal is proving to be a curse as there are no aftermarket mfgrs. of stock looking rims in the 8 lug pattern.
maybe if you find your desired 17.5's we could arrange a trade? I think the 16's though not ariginal size, may work on my 'ol girl. | | |
#34420 11/27/2001 7:08 AM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Robert, you can go with a later model GM 8 bolt rim, but you will have to use spacers on the front wheels to clear the tie rod ends. You will also lose your hubcap clips, which can be added on, but it's not an easy job.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
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#34421 11/28/2001 4:22 AM | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 2 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 2 | Fred is wright, I mounted up my wheels started her up and it would not move! Then I made it move! Oops' Here the rims were up against the tie rod ends. I used 1 spacer per wheel and it seemed to do the trick. I didnt even need to change the studs in my case. Do miss those hub caps though | | |
#34422 11/28/2001 5:16 AM | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 427 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 427 | Be careful of the change in the wheel dynamics with the spacers. The load on the studs on the wheel is now the width of the spacer away from its design point which I am told considerably weakens them. Just passing along what I am told but it does seem to make sense to me. | | |
#34423 11/28/2001 6:00 AM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | OldCarKook is right. Using spacers does increase the loads on the studs, but very few people constantly load these old 3/4 tons very heavily for very long. Just don't look at some of the loads I've had in my 52, about 2 tons of b&b juniper trees comes to mind.  You won't find spacers on my truck because of that.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
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#34424 11/28/2001 12:41 PM | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 | I had a 49 GMC 3/4 ton with 8 lug wheels from 84 Chevy on it.I used a normal washer on each front stud for a spacer.The 1/16 of an inch did the trick for me except when the truck as cornered fast, scrape grind.After a few corners, the it clearanced itself. | | |
#34425 11/28/2001 6:34 PM | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 13 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 13 | GM and **** used 17.5 inch rims. Those I've seen are strictly one-piece, no split rings. The GM rim came in at least two offsets, one of which may not work on the front end. Match your current rim's offset for best performance. A number of manufacturers produce an 8 x 17.5 inch radial. Yokohama has them in highway and knobby ribs. TireRack advertises them in mags like Road & Track. M.E. Miller Tire in Ohio (a This Old Truck advertiser) has an 8 x 17.5 in a bias ply. THE HUBCAP STORE in Easton, Pa. has a decent selection of the 17.5 inch one-piece wheels -- as well as thouands of others -- all USED but in good shape. These rims generally measure 5.25 x 17.5. | | |
#34426 11/28/2001 7:29 PM | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 35 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 35 | I have a '59 38 (1-ton) with the 17.5 inch rims however, mine are one piece. I got a quote from a local tire dealer for $145/tire for the 8x17.5 tires.
I looked into changing rims, but the problem is backspacing as mentioned above. Don't want to use spacers... I may put more aggressive tire on it for a better look, but plan on keeping my stock hubcaps. | | |
#34427 11/29/2001 5:58 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 90 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 90 | I too have a 1959 3800 and went to 9.50 tires on 16.5 inch rims. They are pretty tall, although a little shorter then the 17.5 split rims that were on it.
While the 16.5 tires are getting a little harder to find (you can still buy them new for around $95), they don't cause a rubbing problem on the front end like 16 inch rims do. Sure they rub a bit when turning real tight, but overall they work better without having to use spacer washers.
Thanks, Kerwin
1959 Chevrolet 3800 Pickup 1937 Chevrolet GC Panel Can you still call it a barn find if it's your barn? | | |
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