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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 83
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Shop Shark
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I have a '51 Chevy COE 2Ton, short-wheel-base frame that I got for the 2 speed rear. I like the short wheel base and was thinking about putting my '46 Chevy COE Cab and front sheet metal on this frame. However....the previous owner torched the frame on the '51 just ahead of the front spring shackle mounts. Does anyone have a picture (probably from a restoration), of the front end of the frame so I can see what I am missing?

Any other thoughts on how easy it will be putting the '46 cab and front sheet metale on the '51 frame? (both trucks are 2 ton COE)

Thanks,
Chevman

Last edited by chevman; 11/24/2007 12:39 AM.
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'Bolter
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That '47-'53 frame, is of a totally different design. In my opinion, it would be more trouble than it is worth. I'd shorten the frame, of the '46. This can be done, by marking it off, just ahead of the frame crossmember closest to the cab, then marking it off at the same area, of the last crossmember just ahead of the rear axle. Cut that section of frame out, then bring the rear cross member to where the front member was then fab, it back together. This will eliminate one drive shaft. I did a '51 COE this way some years ago. Shortened it from a 158"in. wheelbase truck, down to a 134In. wheelbase truck. 24"in. was removed from the frame. Spot welded the frame together, then welded a plat to the back side of the frame, then welded a plate (double framed)to the outside of the frame.


Spanky Hardy
Collector Of Fine Old G.M. COE Trucks & Antique Holmes Wreckers

1948 Chevrolet 5700 COE Holmes HD W35 Wrecker
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1950 GMC 250 1-Ton
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Thanks Spanky, I kind of thought that might be the best way to go. The '46 has an extra plate on the outside of the frame all ready so that can be cut when doing the frame and I will just need to add one on the inside when putting it back together.

Thanks!!
Chevman

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'Bolter
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If done correctly, you won't have to have any drive shaft work done. Of course you will have to rework your brake lines.

Last edited by spanky; 11/24/2007 4:26 AM.

Spanky Hardy
Collector Of Fine Old G.M. COE Trucks & Antique Holmes Wreckers

1948 Chevrolet 5700 COE Holmes HD W35 Wrecker
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures on Photobucket

1950 GMC 250 1-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Spanky,
I took what you posted and stopped by where my truck is stored and looked the situation over. The '46 COE has 4 cross members behind the cab to the rear end of the frame. The back two cross members are near the leaf spring shackles then there is the one about 15 inches behind the cab and the fourth one about 40 inches behind the cab and has the drive shaft mount hanging from it. There are two drive shaft sections, first from the tranny to the hanger on the second cros smember back from the cab and then the second that goes the rest of the way to the rear axle.

I measured and if I took out enough frame to remove the section of drive shaft right behind the tranny it would remove 55 inches of frame and shorten the wheelbase from 158 to 103. I don't think that is what you meant.

If I take out the first cross member behind the cab and the frame back to the next cross member that would take about about 25 inches and go to a 133 wheelbase.

So what do you do with the drive shaft right behind the tranny?

Thanks for the help!
Chevman

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'Bolter
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O.K., I'm talking about the cross member that you say is 15"in. behind the cab, & the next one back. Not the two, that are situated right at the front, & rear spring hangers. On my truck, there was exactly 24"in. between these two crossmembers. I shortened my truck from the original 5700 series wheelbase of 158"in., down to the 5400 series wheelbase of 134"in.


Spanky Hardy
Collector Of Fine Old G.M. COE Trucks & Antique Holmes Wreckers

1948 Chevrolet 5700 COE Holmes HD W35 Wrecker
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures on Photobucket

1950 GMC 250 1-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 83
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That looks like that will work here also. The distance between these two crossmembers is also 24".

Thanks!
Chevman

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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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One sneaky trick we used to do when changing frame length was to make the frame rail cut at a 45 degree angle. It makes for a longer weld, and more load-bearing area where the splice is made. A double fish plate job, also at an angle, strengthens the splice to the point it becomes the strongest part of the frame. Haven't had one break yet, even with some horrendous overloads!
Jerry


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