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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 41
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
S Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 41
Any info as to using one of these from Heidts,TCI etc.Pro's and Con's appreciated. I want to update the front suspension,looking for advice/info. Thanks

Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,544
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,544
Hi
If it was me I'd do some real sole searching before digging into this project. I can think of so many for sale ads and projects for sale at swap meets with a half done front sub-frame jobs. While most companies that sell the kits to install a Mustang II type front ends are genuine and can offer tech assistance. They can't come to your shop to help square things up, weld things together, box frame rails, make brackets and mounts, design steering shafts ect. The concept looks good, drives good if its installed correct. Consider how much you want to use the truck and if your willing and able to invest lots of time into the project. Not trying to be negative but I hate seeing someone get down a path with no way out and have a truck left in a pile of stuff.
Don

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
W
Shop Shark
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W Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
What Don said. You'd prolly be happy with the results IF it was done correctly. You can spend a lot of $$ on all the components.

I like the dropped axle concept, cheap, simple and bullet-proof. Won't ride quite as nice as IFS but you can use your old springs, steering set-up, etc. Keeps that old truck feel.

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,554
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,554
I used the TCI Mustang 2 setup in my 55. It has worked out very good for me.The truck rides and handles just great.It all depends on what you want your finished truck to be. The directions were pretty good that came with the front end. I did have to make one phone call to them concerning the power steering pump.They use a Thunderbird rack and pinion setup and if you use a GM Power steering pump,you have to reduce the pressure.Ford units use approx. 700 to 800PSI,where as GM pumps put out 1200 to 1300 PSI. I got a pressure reduction valve to put in my GM pump. As with any modification you have to measure carefully,I measured mine about 6 times before I welded the crossmember inJust to be sure everything was lined up correctly.Of course I pulled the front clip off of the truck and pulled the engine out,to do the job.There is no comparison as to the ride and handling,between the stock setup and the M2 frontends.

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,897
B
Shop Shark
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,897
Two cons to the MII ... you lose that old truck charm, and you lose the weight rating of your vehicle. I don't think anybody really cares, but a car suspension in a truck should not be used for hauling... only cruising.


Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 84
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 84
IMHO,
Leave it stock man! Lots and lots of guys do this. Why follow in
the herd??
dg

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
B
Master Gabster
Master Gabster
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
sooner
You will get a lot of free advice here, take it for what it's worth.
You must decide what you want the finished product to look like and ride like. You have the option to bring it back to a perfect original condition or to turn it into a rat rod. The end results need to be what pleases you. Just don't bite off more than you can chew. As the old adage says, "count the costs before you start writing checks".


~Jim
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,879
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,879
With real truck suspensions available, why would anybody screw up a stovebolt with a compact car suspension? If you're planning to go IFS, adapt a later-model Chevy truck suspension system. Some of them are almost self-contained, with practically all the major parts bolted onto the front crossmember, which also contains the center-position motor mounts. Adapting the later-model steering gear and tie rods can get a little challenging, but if you're thinking about going to IFS, you need to have a very detailed understanding of steering geometry and suspension principles anway, or a deep pocket to be able to get a pro to do the conversion.
Jerry


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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,554
D
Shop Shark
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D Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,554
True you will lose the old truck feel,and the weight rating. However my truck is setup strictly as a cruiser,and thats the way I like it. Number one,its your truck and do it up however you want. If you want a truck that runs and handles just great,.go for the M2.Dropped straight axles are another option,however all you gain is lowering the front end.It will still ride and handle rough.Its your truck,do whatever makes you happy.

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 41
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
S Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 41
Thanks for all the input guys. I have a complete 87 half ton chassis and the Heidts M2 set up looks nice and streamlined. I just want a cruiser so I am weighing my options. Thanks agaain

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 113
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 113
Hi Sooner!
I have a '37 and I opted for a Fatman IFS (not a Mustang II). I wouldn't readily recommend it unless you've done them before or have a good fitter to assist. Like Hotrod Lincoln was saying, there is a lot of geometry involved and the documentation that comes with them can be somewhat sparse at times.

It took my brother and I two full days to get everything fitted and tacked in (you do NOT want to be cutting components out because you discovered an error in your plan!). I am very pleased with the looks and performance now that it's done.

Best of luck on your project!



Everything is different now...
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 348
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 348
IF YOUR GOING TO PUT A MUSTANG II HEIDTS IS THE BEST. I HAVE INSTALLED DIFFERENT BRANDS FATMAN, TCI, JIM WIENERS, ETC


1949 SUBURBAN
In the Gallery
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
B
Master Gabster
Master Gabster
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
You will see many vendors touted here, but Heidt’s is one of the most touted if not the most for IFS kits. It is certainly not the least expensive in fact they are quite proud of the product with good reason. If you go with an IFS and you plan on driving your truck forever it always pays to go for the best quality parts you can afford.


~Jim
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,445
R
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,445
I have a heidt's in my 39.

I bought a disk to disk kit, a bit pricey, but all NEW components. The only isse i had was they sent the 2 inch Drop spindles, vice the stock height that i asked for...

The most important parts of the installation is MEASURING and MARKING!!

Mark the centerline of the front axle. Measure, cross-measure and remeasure everything about 20 times. Then have someone else do the same.

I hired a welder for a day to do the actual welding in, which was a good move, as my welding skills leave much to be desired...

The welder also measured everything twice before starting to weld everything in... it took about 7 or 8 hours including lunch and a few breaks.

The truck drives down the freeway 80mph+ with no dog tracking or wandering.


Another quality post.
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