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How difficult should it be to turn the steering knuckle back and forth after replacing the upper and lower ball joints? I also replaced the coil springs and control arm bushings, but I wouldn't think that would matter.
I did grease the ball joints and the tie rods are not connected. I noticed that on the lower ball joint, the cotter pin hole is actually above the castle nut.
Thanks

With new parts, it will be a little stiff until the parts wear in a little bit. They'll loosen up after a bit of use. As to the position of the coter pin hole relative to the nut, that can vary by brand of parts, especially with some of the lower priced brands. I wouldn't worry too much about it

I put a little grease on the ball joint shafts before adding the knuckle. I woke up in the middle of the night thinking about the situation and it occured to me that although I put grease on the shaft and threads, I neglected to put grease on the flat areas that actually make contact around the ball joints shafts.
Maybe dropping the knuckles and adding a little grease to that area may help a little? I know the knuckles should be tight but they just seem extra tough to turn.
Your right about the less expensive ball joints, i went with the middle of the road brand rather than the most expensive.
thanks for the advice

You do not need grease on the taper shaft & the hole in the spindle. The turning is not done there. It is in the ball joint. The nuts are tightened down very tight. There is a torgue spec. for them. Tighten further to line up the cotter pin holes. Some brands have a thick washer that goes under the nut on the lower one. Put a jack under the lower arm to take the spring pressure off & the spindle will turn back & forth. It will be firm with new parts.

I'll put a jack under it tomorrow and give the knuckle a twist. After reading some forums and talking to people, i feel sure it is just the new ball joints.
thanks for the help