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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,079 Posts1,056,058 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 | Hello All. I purchased one of Chevy Duty's "alternate" headlight switches to replace my original. Does anyone know which terminal post that the stop/brake light wires go to on the switch???? There is no terminal marked "stop" or "brake"
J.D. Jordan
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Usually the hot wire to the stop light switch comes off the fuse panel. If it hooks to the light switch it would junction with the hot wire comeing from the bat or amp. gauge. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | From the fuse box on the firewall in the engine compartment? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | If you're talking about your '53 the factory wire (Orange) goes from the light switch (always hot) through a fuse on the firewall, then to the stoplight switch, then out back.
Since you don't have a "Stop" terminal on your new switch you can wire a hot wire (like from the horn relay) to the fuse. That'll get ya going. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | dublenaught,
I have a picture that Tim posted some time ago of a AD headlight switch. I am not skilled enough to post it myself and can't find the previous thread that shows it.
If you hold the switch in your hand so the terminals are FACING you, meaning your looking at the bottom of the switch, AND the knob is at 3 O'clock, the BRAKE terminal is on the top left. The terminals on the END (opposite the knob) are all BATT terminals, and they act as a common buss for the BRAKE terminal...no switching involved.
I don't know if the repro switch you have is patterned after the factory switch exactly, but it might be. Good luck.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Light Switch : It's not clear or pretty, but it's labeled. Tim | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 | Thanks to all. As I stated very clearly the switch was an ALTERNATE - not the original. Therefore there is NO post for the brake light, and the diagram does not help here. Based on the responses given, it sounds as if though I must (a) string up a wire between the fuse post on the firewall and wire the other end (along with the orange wire) to either the "bat" terminal or the "aux" terminal "on the switch or (b)just wire the orange / brake wire to the aux or bat terminal. I"ll give it a shot.
J.D. Jordan
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | dub- Just make sure the current for the stoplights goes through he fuse. You don't want a short out back somewhere to turn the motor and headlights off some dark night.
I would take the orange wire that ran from the fuse to the old switch (prolly dangling in the breeze now in the vicinity of the switch?) pull it back through the firewall, cut it to length, put a new terminal on it, and connect it to a hot lead, such as the horn relay "hot" terminal, just double it up there.
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