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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 68 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 68 | Need to know what parts cause The three on the tree shifter to be hard to shift I replaced the plastic busings on the shift rod but did not seem to help. What would be the next logical place to check? Thanks, This is on a 1959 chevy 1/2 ton stepside with the orginal 283cu V8 truck.
Last edited by Focus; 11/12/2007 8:19 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 |
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | The manual states "proper adjustment procedure is important". I would follow all the steps in order and then you should be able to figure out if the shift box is worn out or if some other problem like tired motor mounts are causing your grief. Use grease in the shift box...gear oil will leak out. The box is aluminum and can wear out over time but you can get a rebuilt one for about $50.00
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 582 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 582 | When I rebuilt my engine and tranny, I too had issues with the shift linkage when it all went back together. Here's what I found. First, you need to get familiar with the positions of the shift arms on the side of your tranny. When I rebuilt the transmission, I photographed the positions of the arms in all the gears. (See my webshots pictures at http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer). I then used these photos when I was underneath the truck to make sure that whatever gear I thought I was in was indeed correct. Then, I went up to the cab and put the shifter in neutral. Went back to the tranny underneath the truck and made sure that the tranny shift arms were in neutral. Next and the most important, went to the shift box on the column. The shift box needs to be absolutely perfect (especially if it has been rebuilt and tight as mine was) to make sure that the shifter lug passes smoothly between the upper slot and the lower slot. You may need to loosen the shifter box to the column, rotate it slightly left or right and possiby up and down the column to align the two slots perfectly. It only moves about 1/2" up and down as it is caught with a tab in a slot on the column. Loosen the clamp nuts on the shift rods at the box to allow you to eyeball and adjust the slots inside the box. You can usually do a better job of doing this if you take the cover off the box, remove some of the grease and then watch the slots and tab. Once the tabs are aligned, clamp down on the shift rod nuts and also make sure that the shifter box clamps are tight on the column. This is a try and see adjustment procedure. You may need to do it several times to get it right. When everything is correct, everything adjusts to the neutral position. The shifter arms on the tranny are correct in neutral, the lug passes cleanly between the two slots on the shift box and the shifter arm in the cab is in the correct position. Takes time to get it right. Once you do that, you may experience some tight shifting from the cab so go back and check the tab and slots in the box. That's where the shift arms and nuts may need a bit more nudging. Good luck! | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Focus,
I'm not a 'three on the tree' expert, but have seen the detents and bushings in the actual transmission sidecover go to heck in a hand basket. Regardless of all the splashing gear lube, this can make the vehicle hard to shift.
If you disconnect all the shift linkage from the transmission, you should be able to single out the problem...either the shift box and related bushings or the transmission sidecover and its mechanicals.
I remember a post awhile back where a sticky shift problem with a column shift was actually a worn support or bearing right up on top of the column, under the shift handle itself. Good luck.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 68 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 68 | Curt_B you said :Use grease in the shift box...gear oil will leak out Will wheel bearing grease work? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Curt_B you said :Use grease in the shift box...gear oil will leak out Will wheel bearing grease work? The manual says use soft,smooth grease. Wheel bearing grease is ok. Rsavage: Your first pic is of the shift box. The manual states it is lubricated permanently and only needs checking in the case of hard shifting and grease goes in there. In your second picture that square plug is on the steering box and steering lube goes there if required. That one's a long story...do a search for steering lube. Curt B.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 | Thank you Curt! I will search the boards for it. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 | Ok, for the shift box, that round tab came right up. Inside was one solid chunk of old grease. It was gummy. I'll get new grease for that.
As for the steering lube -I'll ask the parts store what they have. Thanks again! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,102 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,102 | Something else you can check - the shift lever inside the cab. It has a wire type spring and rubber bushing inside that can be missing or broken. It also needs to be lubed with light grease but needs to be taken apart to do so. Fred
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes 1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes 2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans 1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 | Ah! Cool! I had no idea. Yanno... the screws that hold the shift lever onto the steering column are loose as well. I don't think they're the original screws. Either that or they've been all cross-threaded and have lost their tightness. I bet if I replace those, it might help a smidge. I'll check for the spring and bushing too. I'll still be taking it to a transmission place but all this other stuff is just great to know.  | | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 68 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 68 | rsavage, Did you just add more grease or clean the old out someway?
Thanks to All who responded, Thats what makes this site great! I will check out all suggestions as to the binding shifter problem.
Focus | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | The old dry grease will probably do a good job of preventing new grease from doing any good. It should be disassembled paying close attention to how the spring is oriented inside, cleaned in a parts washer, inspected for wear, and then lubed, re installed and adjusted if one wants to do it right. The rod and arms shouldn't wear much but the aluminum housing can get real sloppy. Good luck.
Curt B.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 90 | I actually cleaned it out pretty good without taking it apart. I'll get brave and take it apart at some point but for now, all the grease was really just kinda balled up and it came out on the tip of a screwdriver. I dug around all sides, up and down with the screwdriver digging out a bit more and then took a skinny hooked scrubber thingy (kinda like a baby bottle nipple cleaner) and worked that around. I know I didn't get every bit but I got at least 98%. I'm going to go fix the shifter on the column in a few. It's slightly loose and needs new screws to make it tight.  Thanks everyone. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 | Hard and sticky shifting is a problem solved with patience and perseverance. New bushings, rebuilt shift box, etc. all help, but adjustment is pretty critical. Start with the transmission shift arms and work your way up to the shift lever inside. Good luck. sometimes it seems to be luck more than skill.
Last edited by chevman32; 11/13/2007 7:22 PM.
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