The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop wheels and tires

I'm updating my wheels and tires. I have 15" splitrims and have found a company that will rebuild my wheel using the existing centers so that I can use my original hubcaps and switch to radial tires. All that is left to do is figure out what wheel size I want. My goal is to improve ride and handling while keeping the outside diameter of the tire the same. Of course, I will be adding performance sway bars and new shocks. Currently, my wheels are 15 X 6. I'm wondering what the advantages and disadvantages are of switching to 15x7, 16x7, or maybe even 16x8. Should I go wider in the rear? I do understand that lowering the profile of the tire may result in a bumpier ride if I go with 16's. Any professional input or advice is greatly appreciated.

I am contemplating changing the wheels on my 1950 Chevy but have not been able to since there are no wheels that allow me to use my hubcaps. Can you tell me who is doing this for you?

Thanks,

Mike

What year and series truck is this? I know from personal experience that 3/4-ton and 1-ton AD (47-55-1st) Chevy's have minimum clearance on the front tie rods. The wheels must have a shallow backset or inset. It's only about 4 1/2" from the hub face to the tie rod. Not many aftermarket wheels will fit these trucks. Good luck.

62 Longbed Fleetside. 235 4spd w/posi. Current wheels are 15" split rims w/7.00 x 15 tube type tires.

Hello? Is there anyone out there who has tried different wheel/tire sizes? I still looking for input on what works well for light duty highway driving. More than anything, I'm looking to improve cornering without sacrificing ride comfort. Thanks again!

As I have said before, I have 15x7 Chevy Rally wheels from a 1985 Chevy 4x4 on my 1948 Chevy 1/2 ton. I have changed the beauty rings to 1938 Buick/Oldsmobile "ribbed" Stainless steel rings. I used two pairs of rear center caps, and used after market 3" stickers to cover the 4x4 logo's. The tires are 225x70x15, and are adequate for the stock 4.10 gears and my 235 4spd. Though don't plan on doing much over 55 for any length of time, or you will wear out the torque tube bushings. I am planning on going to an open drive shaft and using the GMC 3.9 gears, and then do some brake upgrades, possibly even front disc brakes. Well, hope this helps you out, if you are going to 16" rims, use a 225x75x16 or a 235x85x16. The 225 will be about a 30 to 30 1/2 inch tall tire, will the 235x85 will be almost 33" tall. The 235x85 may cause some interference arounfd the front fenders, but will reduce the need for changing gears to make it streetable.
Good Luck, Garry

Garry, Thanks for the info. You've got my ears perked about not going over 55 for a while. As is - with my tube type 7.00 x 15's, my trucks sweet spot on the highway is 60mph. It will go 75 but gets quite loud at that speed. I believe the gear ratio on my posi is 3.89. Next year I will be adding an overdrive. Back to the wheel/ tire combo - what do you think the difference would be if I used 16s instead of 15s while keeping the outside diameter (28 1\2) the same? What negative/positive impacts would be made by increasing the diameter?

To answer Mike's earlier question: Stockton wheels in Stockton CA will take your original wheels, cut out the inner, and rebuild the wheel to whatever specs you want. This will allow you to make the switch to radial tires and keep using your original caps without any modifications. They quoted me $110 per wheel and will powdercoat them or paint them at an additional cost. I'm tickled pink about this and am still trying to learn what sizes would be best for my truck. I'll be sending them my wheels as soon as I'm comfy with my decision about size.

Here's my experience.

My '55 2nd series half ton is original except for tires and wheels. The previous owner had put on some 15" aluminum wheels with wide, low profile tires. The tire size was 275/70R15. I didn't like the look, and it was really hard to steer at low speed.

I had Stockton Wheels make a custom set of 16" x 6" steel wheels. I specified the backset at 3" to make sure the wheels clear the tie rods (standard backset is 4-4.5"). I had them powdercoated with a semi-gloss black. Stockton Wheels also had a set of hubcaps for the wheels that are close to the original look. I bought a set of Goodyear Wrangler AT sized 235/85R16. The tire diameter went from about 26" to 32."

First, the truck seems to run a lot better with the new tires/wheels. It shifts better. It's an original automatic trans, and with the old tires, it seemed to shift too early, so I'd shift it manually a lot. Now, I just leave the shift lever alone 90% of the time.

Second, it steers almost like it has power steering. I can literally use one finger on the steering wheel when driving at low speeds. Freeway driving was almost impossible with the old tires; with the new ones, it's actually practical.

Finally, I like the looks of the new tires and wheels a lot better. The truck sits higher by 2" which to my eye is an improvement, and the tires make it look like a truck, not a rod, which is my preference.

The 3" backset worked, but after mounting the tires and wheels, I learned that I probably could have used 3.5" or even 4" backset.

Downside, the custom made wheels were expensive, and if I had it to do over again, I'd look a little harder for off-the-shelf wheels before paying a premium for custom made ones. But overall, it's worked out better than I expected.

LT

LT, thanks for sharing your experience. That's the type of info I'm looking for. I'm just about set on getting 16s and using 225 75R 16s to achieve a diameter of 30". (Currently is 28 1/2) So.... How will this affect the accuracy of my speedo? Logic tells me that it will read slow... but HOW slow? What does your speedo do and how tall were the original tires?

My speedo doesn't work, so it's not an issue.

But after I get it working, I imagine I'll just calibrate it by driving behind the wife's car and asking her what speed she's going. It was probably off the other way with the old tires.

LT

doc,

I didn't completely answer your question. My tires went from a diameter of 26" to 32". This is more than 20% bigger. The improvement in shifting was the result of making the tires bigger. The improvement in steering was the result of removing the wide squishy tires and replacing them with narrower and harder tires. I don't know the size of the original-in-1955 tires. The original wheels for a 1/2 ton truck are 15". I went with 16" specifically because I wanted to use a 235R85/16 tire. I wanted the tallest tires I could get, and it was the right thing to do.
Hope this helps.
LT

I am having a similar issue with tires/wheels, except I'm going the opposite direction. I have a '51 3/4 ton with optional 17" 8-lug wheels. Since they are split-rim I have to replace them becuased no tire shop in Edmonton will touch them. The only 8-lug GM rims I've found have a 5" backspacing, which is too much and the rim hits the tie rod ends. I'm just going out today to look at some after-market white spoke rims that I think are for a trailer. The backspacing is right and the tire store has assured me that the bolt pattern is right also. We'll see.

If anyone has a different idea, I'm still open to suggestions. The white spoke wheels will (in my opinion) look awful, but they're the only solution I've some up with so far.

do a search here on 8 bolt rims.

I have a 55.1 with a 3.9 rear end. I switched from a 3 speed to a 4 speed with a granny low. I took off the non-original 15" tires on the rear, and put on 16" bias tires with a 31" diameter. It made 13% difference in the speed from my old tires. You can figure yours by figuring the diameter ratios. I am going to a 33 on the back and put the 31s on the front. Then I will be going down hill all the time...think of the gas I'll save! (I know, I know) - Scott

I don't know if it's the same company, but I used to buy wheel blanks from a place in Stockton, Ca. back in the 70's to build my own dirt-track race car wheels. I made wheel centers out of 1/4" plate, and welded them into the rims at the proper offset, using triangular braces between the lug holes for reinforcement. Heavy, but just about bulletproof when we'd rub wheels on the dirt track! I also added a piece of round rod around the bead area to discourage bead bending. With the driver I had it was a necessity! Things got pretty rough out there, jockeying for position heading into a turn!
Jerry