The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Removing rear axle bearing

Though some may object to my animalistic way of doing things, today I used a 1-1/2" x 6' pipe and wacked those stubborn bearings, seals and washers right out. Yes the washers came out a little distorted but nothing a large sturdy vise can't fix.

Hey we have a lot in common!
I did it the same way.
Did you find your seals to be the leather type? No wonder they leak. I replaced with modern rubber ones.

Brian,
Yes they were leather (poor horses). Rubber is next.

where are these seals?
I did not see them on mine?
where and how do they fit in if i was to replace ones that were left out by a Previos Owner?

At each end of the rear axle. There is a roller bearing, and a seal. If you pulled your bearings, you pulled the seal. I think if yours are missing you would know it by the differential oil "pouring" out of your wheels.

Looking from outwards to inwards it is:

Seal, Bearing, washer.

I agree that if you didn't have the seal, there would have been lots of oil into your rear drums.

This is very timely for me. I should be ready to pull the old rear bearings and seals on Monday or so. Since my pumpkin is still very much occupied by all those gears I won't have the option of using my "Big Pipe".

Can I rent a bearing puller for this job or is there a homebrew solution? The existing bearings are roller type? Were my bearings upgraded by a prior owner or were these stock in 1952?

Good morning shoeless,
Geez, I was going to send "my big pipe" to you Fed Ex overnight but sounds like you have too many guests still in your rear end.

Yeah, it sounds like you will need to get a puller. When I rented one (slide hammer) for another application, it was too small, too light to do the job. I should have gotten the heaviest one possible. Maybe there is a regular puller that would work for this application.

I painted my rear axle housing yesterday and will probably install my bearings tomorrow, but will need to figure the best way to install them. Don't have a big enough pipe lying around.

Yes, my old bearings were roller also.

Good morning to you Mr. Craig.

I should finish cleaning my axle assembly this morning and paint this afternoon. BTW, how do you like that Zero Rust stuff? I have been cleaning the chassis to bare metal where possible, then putting on 1 coat of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator followed by 2 or 3 coats of Gloss Chassis Black ... so far I am pleased, but only time will tell.

I'll rent the brute model of bearing puller next week. When I get ready to replace I was planning on using the old seal as a "driving" tool, or a short 3 inch pipe. Maybe we should put the bearings and seals in the freezer the night before.

I was very pleased with the good condition of all the metal parts inside the pumpkin.

Anyone have any recommendations yet for proper gasket sealer for the differential cover?

shoeless,
Regarding ZR, I really can't comment yet for I have limited experience with it at this time. I think for my application and demand it will be just fine. How are you cleaning your chassis? Wire hand brush? Pretty soon I need to address my frame. It's going to be a real bear with the truck being assembled. It will never be as good as tearing it down to the frame but this is the direction I have chosen.

There's another discussion found in the archieves that you might want to read:

http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=004877#00 0006

The idea of using the old bearing as the impact tool for installing the new bearing and seal sounds like a good way to go. I don't think the old seal is stout enough to pound in the new bearing. Yes, maybe I'll slide the cheesecake over in the freezer to make room for the new bearings and friends.

I remember you asking previously about the best adhesive which I also want to know. Also what about the gasket between the torque tube and the rear axle housing ? Hmmmmm...

Tools I used to clean the frame, front end, rear axle, etc:

Hand drill.
Various sizes of wire wheels.
3M cleaning/sanding wheels (black) for cleaning down to the bare metal. I don't know what material they use, but it works great. I've worn out about 15 of them!
Various sizes of hand wire brushes.
Compressed air.
Putty knives.
4 1/2" Flap wheels.

I think your biggest challenge will be cleaning the frame while the body is attached. Some of those spots are very hard to reach.

I have to admit that the project of cleaning the frame got old quick. I estimate that I spent 200 hours on this alone. In order to avoid depression, I would do a small section at a time, then paint it. Some days I only did 2 or 3 feet. The finished sections provided motivation to see it through.

If I had it to do again with the bare frame, I would take it somewhere and get it sandblasted.

I have my whole truck painted in ZR - so far so good. But its only been a few months.