The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Power brake booster w/manual trans

I really want to add power brakes to the 59' but want to keep the Muncie. I can't find a system that will work with a manual trans. Seems there are issues with the clutch linkage. Has anyone got a cure? I had thought about a hydraulic clutch but haven't looked into it. I have a 327 with side engine mounts and a trans cross member if it helps.

I saw a program the other night but I can't remember where they installed a rack on the firewall of a car. The rack contained the power brakes and a hydraulic clutch system with the servo for the clutch mounted at the clutch fork. There must be something on the market of this type of setup. I owned an 87 S10 at one time with a hydraulic clutch and you couldn't tell the difference to a mechanical clutch. After about 80000 mules I had to change the rubber seals on the master cylinder for the clutch. It would seem a shame to get rid of a muncie tranny, especially hooked up to the a gem like a 327. Good luck. Bob T

I can't see the clutch linkage being in the way but I think you have a built in a problem with the rear crossmember as it could be positioned right where the booster/mc would be located. It may be possible to modify the crossmember and still be able to use one of the aftermarket kits. If you have the stock bellhousing mounted to the factory crossmember you could eliminate the rear one. The stock application did not use a rear trans mount.
Fred

The issue seems to be with the clutch linkage and pedal as it shares a common shaft with brake pedal. The clutch pedal mounts outside the frame and uses a bushing located in the top of the frame rail. The bellcrank mounts to the rear side of the engine block just in front of the bell housing and the clutch rod pivots from this. Keep in mind that I still have the original crossmember in place and have added a trans crossmember as well as side motor mounts. I don't use the motor mounts on the bell housing and the engine has been moved forward about 1.5 inches(to clear the HEI better). I see no problems with the headers or the original crossmember. The only conflict I see is the brake booster and mastercylinder using another mount for the brake pedal. I'm sure that someone else has come across this problem before, not everyone uses an automatic trans with power brakes.

Tuts59,
I still don't see a problem with the clutch linkage. The clutch and brake pedal on my 56 do not share a common shaft. I recently replaced a stock MC on a 59 and it had the same configuration as my 56 before I converted to disc brakes, booster, etc. The only thing that has been changed from stock on your truck is the additional length of the clutch adjustment rod because your engine is moved foreward. The aftermarket Booster/MC kits mount to the existing MC holes. They also come with a replacement pedal pivot pin. I have installed several of these units the most recent a 55 3600 using a 8" dual diaphram booster with a dual MC. It has a warner 3 speed trans which is a large unit. I have a similar configuration in my 56 with a 350 V-8 & 3 speed OD trans. There are no clearance issuses on either application and no interference with the stock clutch linkage. Take a look at the kits offered by ABS Brake. www.abspowerbrake.com.
Fred

I may be looking at this assembly wrong. Seems to me that the brake and clutch shared the same shaft. I have researched this in several catalogs and all have said not for use with manual trans. I am not above making my own brakets as I have done with the motor mounts and such, I only need to do some mocking up first. I suppose that when you have your truck apart for 16 years you tend to forget things. Thanks Fred I'll keep you posted...

Similar queston, I am building a 1946 with a 305ci and a T5 in it. I don't have clue how I gonna connect the clutchpedal to the clutch, hydraulic, cable or linkage? Please give some Ideas or sollutions.

Thanks

There is another option. Check out the hydroboost power brakes. It uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump, is a lot smaller than a vacuum brake booster, and will work even if you have a huge lumpy cam.

I'll second the Hydroboost idea.
I fit one on my 48 between the frame rail and the manual transmission, a 10 speed Roadranger at that, it's about twice as wide as the old 4 speed...

this is not what I did, but the bracket design may give you some ideas, it mounts the booster farther back.
http://www.abspowerbrake.com/4754chevytruck.html
Second picture up from the bottom.

Grigg

You could use a Hydrovac booster, they can be mounted anywhere and only hooks up to hydraulic lines, no linkage required.

A bit unorthodox but we gutted the master cylinder on a 57 and made a longer plunger rod that ran through the hollow factory m/c to a power unit mounted behind it where there was more room. Still working fine after 6 or 7 years.