The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (moparguy, 37 GC, Otto Skorzeny), 109 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,141
Posts1,056,779
Members48,454
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 275
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 275
I am in the process of building a 46 3/4 ton stakebed and turning it into a 1/2 tone pickup with a 350 sbc tied to a TH350 transmission. I've removed the 46 body from it's original frame and sandblasted and cleaned all the pieces. I still have to take the cab to the media blaster. I've sandblasted everything else, with the exception of the frame, in my shop. I will be installing air conditioning, power windshild wipers and power windows. I've taken a 1987 Chev extended cab S10 and removed the body from the frame. The extended cab means that the frame will have to be sectioned one foot.

See the link for pictures: S-10 frame for a 46 1/2 pickup

If you have any suggestions, hints, tips or critisism, please don't hesitate to let me know.

Frank smile


No better smell than that of fresh paint. I've been building and painting cars/trucks for 47 years. Not gonna stop now.
http://www.coxcustomcars.com/



Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
There is a factory splice where the rear "C" channel frame fits into the front box frame. If it wouldn't put the rear kick up in the wrong place then cutting at this point and putting back together after shortening the rear rails would make the splice invisible. Haven't done a 46 or older but have done several 47-53.


Evan
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 275
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 275
Thanks coilover for your input. I really wanted to cut the frame at the most square location. Plus I wanted to have something that would strenghten the weld. So the addition of the C channel would allow me to adjust the frame lenght to accomodate the centering of the wheels in the fenders, plus give extra strenght at the weld point. To hide the extra C channel I could box the frame at that location.
Frank


No better smell than that of fresh paint. I've been building and painting cars/trucks for 47 years. Not gonna stop now.
http://www.coxcustomcars.com/



Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 144
B
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
B Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 144
Looks great, I have an 87 S10 front clip on my 46. So far everything is coming together pretty well. I put new ball joints tie rods shocks etc on it last year, only big problem I have is I mounted the engine, a chev 350 and it came out about an inch too far forward. To cure that I'm installing an electric fan or might just move it back another inch. Anuway good luck on the project and it looks great. Bob T

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 16
B
Junior Member
Junior Member
B Offline
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 16
Hows the swap going mate,
i have a 46 and a 47 that in playing wiht , the 47 is a resto rod but the 46 is currently stripped down to bare chassis waiting for me to gte the 47 finished.

was toying with the idea about changeing the frount and rear ends.

thers a heap of pic's here if anyone is intrested - http://community.webshots.com/user/Bretto63
Kind Regards, Brett

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 275
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 275
It is going very well. I've re-installed the front and rear suspension. Next step is to construct the new bed and start adding the bed, cab, and front end on to the frame for mock up.


No better smell than that of fresh paint. I've been building and painting cars/trucks for 47 years. Not gonna stop now.
http://www.coxcustomcars.com/



Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
Thanks for posting this great info. I have a 51 on an extended cab S-10 frame, instead of a long bed S-10 frame and was wondering what to do. Thanks to your post I now know. Thanks. Please keep usn posted with your picture documentary.
Jeff

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
5
New Guy
New Guy
5 Offline
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
Jeff. have you put the 51 on the ext s-10 frame or are you getting ready to do the swap? I am in the planning stages of doing the same and would like to know the pitfalls BEFORE I get started with this part of the project. Any information would be of great help.

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
I bought the truck already on the frame. Problem is it is a extended cab,not a long bed S10 and the the frame is about 6 inches too long. I have to find out where the best location is to cut it.
The cab is mounted-anybody have a recommmended area to do the splice?
Jeff

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 275
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 275
jkane, go check out my first post in this thread and follow the link. It will show you the best place to cut the frame. I chose this location because the frame rails are straight and a piece of 5" channel will fit inside them. I just bolted the 5" channel inside the frame for right now because I want to get the body, bed and front end on the frame so that I can center the wheels in the fenders. Once I have the body mocked up, I will take it all apart and weld the frame and the 5" channel all together. It should be plenty strong that way.

Frank

PS I've had to put the 46 on the back burner. I am painting a 55 Ford (yeah, I know, it's a Ford) for a friend. He brought just the Cab, fenders, hood, running boards and bed assembly over. So when I get it painted I will get back to the REAL THING, the 46.


No better smell than that of fresh paint. I've been building and painting cars/trucks for 47 years. Not gonna stop now.
http://www.coxcustomcars.com/



Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 14
O
New Guy
New Guy
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 14
Hey Guys....I am new here...this is my first post as a matter of fact and I see this is an old thread, but I hope someone will have an answer none the less. I just bought a 51 1/2 ton and I just moments ago traded for a regular cab, short bed s-10. Can I use the regular bed frame or do I need to get a long bed? Also, what else can I salvage out of this truck? It is running, just a blowed rear end, but I have one of those on its way.

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 595
1
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
1 Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 595
check out the h.a.m.b. website it's just about all (s-10 to ad) done there. tons of pic's.

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 14
O
New Guy
New Guy
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 14
Hey...thanks for the heads up, I actually found that page a couple hours after my post. I have my frame stripped down and will start working on the mods for the 51 body swap today.

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
B
Master Gabster
Master Gabster
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
FRANK good job and great pictures. Doing it the right way buddy.

BOBT rather than an electric fan you can move your radiator support forward with a little fabrication. I don't know how much room you need but that is a possibility.


~Jim

Moderated by  Fibonachu, KCMongo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0