The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 283 or 350?

Ok guys, I have to make a decision. Ive got a pretty tired 283 in my 66 c20 with a powerglide
trans, that is not shifting well. I need to decide if I want to rebuild the 283 $1000+ or get a 350 and rebuild it. I just talked to a guy who has a 350 with a 4 spd automatic. The engine smokes pretty bad so he told me, (300K mi) so I need to know what to look for to see if it's rebuildable. He told me it was in a 90 caprice, which I was surprised to hear, did they make 350's in 1990?
Also, I think the 4 spd trans would be cool to have and I can get the whole car for $200. So...
Will that set up fit in my 66 p/u and if not, what changes would I have to make?
If I do just decide to rebuild the 283, what can I do to give it some zip. So Ill let you guys help me make the decision.

howziit mastkey!

for $200, i'd surely buy the whole car...and stuff as much of the caprice as i could, into my truck...EFI also.

Orrrr, i'd sell the 350 and the EFI, and get a carbureted 400sbc, along with the caprice stuff.

350 over the 283 any day.

Sell all that junk for a large-journal 327.

NO EFI! EVER!

The big issue with the 1990 350 is going to be the computer controls. If you have money, then it is not such trouble, but if you are driving a 66 chevy that is worn out, then that means you dont have that kind of money. In my opinion, you would be much better off, and save thousands, as well as have a good running easy to fix truck if you stuck with non computer controled engines.
The 69-79 350's are CHEAP to run and fix, and you can squeeze good gas mileage out of them as well, with some informed research. The cheapness allows you to run higher grade parts for the same price as other engines. Personally, if it were me, I'd stick with the 283, rebuild it, then swap in a newer 4 speed overdrive transmission, a non electronic model, available through many sources rebuilt stronger than new. The newer trans' give you lower low gears, for more power, as well as overdrive, for better cruise and mileage. A good transmission selection, with proper diff gears, creates more power than than thousands in hop up parts. You will have a LOT more power on takeoff, as well as a longer lasting, more efficient engine. I'd rather have a 6 cylinder with a 700r4 trans than a 402 with a powerglide. As well, a 402 with a 700r4 will get better mileage than a 6 with the glide.

:)howziit again guys!

you could always "carburetorize" the 350, use the overdrive trans.

my big-block came from an '88 suburban(said the seller).

now, having to pull only 3800 pounds, with RV cam, performer intake, 750cfm, stock exhaust manifolds/T350 trans/3.90 gears, it's like an NBA player in a basketball "pick-up" game.

having a lot of fun...without even trying!

I'm with Chiphead. Big journal 327 with fuellie heads, a good street cam, extractor headers and a Rottie Quadrajet carb. Flyin'!

I'll agree with JKU72. Rebuild the 283 and put a 700R4 behind it. Why? The 283 was a darn good engine, and it's a good piece of nostalgia. Everyone has a 350 and the number of 283s drops every year. The 700R4, in its later versions, was a good tranny. Far better than the powerglide.

I'm definitely not a mechanic, but I have a 283 in my '61 Chevy stepside and have been quite pleased with it. The only thing I need to do is swap out transmissions. The engine has plenty of zip; the transmission has no where to go.

IMHO, if I had a better transmission my "SusieQ" '61 would take off and fly to the moon. :-)

For what it's worth, my vote is to stick with the 283.

283

409

most definetly 283 too many 350's not enuff 283's

The first question to ask is what do you want from your engine? The cost of parts and pieces for a 283 or pre 68- 327 is about 3 times that of a newer 350. If it is authenticity then redo the 283, if it is to get a reliable plus better HP go to the 350 block after 68. That 1990 engine probably has Vortec heads which are better and flow more air than the old Hump heads. You can do just about anything with the technology nowadays. Have fun with your decision.

I don't think there is a difference in cost between rebuilding the two engines; if any. You do get more cubes from the 350 and the 350 will tolerate a lot of duration from a cam, so selection of a good street or RV grind would be a snap.
Skip the 327, if you are thinking of doing that you might as well go with the 350.
The 283 is the best small block ever made, BAR NONE!
I'm sure you can find spare parts for it, people will GIVE them to you; since they are all going to 350's :p .
Wish I still had my 283. Talk about smoooooooooth, I could open a cold one and set it on the air cleaner and it would not foam up (or maybe the cold one was flat ?? ), even if you revved it up.
Good luck what ever you decide .

Panhead_Pete, there are very few Mark-III W-engines here (348-409). Most of them have cracked blocks, right below the cylinder head/deck area. I'm not sure why that is, but it was the first attempt by Chevrolet to create a BB engine .

I was thinking of the higher cost of parts because the 283 bore is smaller and I believe the pistons had a different position for the wrist pins etc. which isn't the same as the new engines parts. But I do agree on the old 283 they are pretty solid engines. I'm just finishing the 350 that is going in the 38. Hopefully I'll get the pictures posted soon.

GMC248 thank you for the 409 info. I have a dream one day for a 409 so all info helps. Cheers mate.

Both motors are good, depends what you want.
If I was doing it I would build a stroker 383
(350 block/400 crank). See any hot rod mag show how to do it at least once a year.
More horses, good or better torque, straight bolt over 283,350,400 small block should all bolt in your 66 with no problems.
Brad

I suggested the 327 because it does make good power, and is unique compared to a 350.

The 327 has a shorter stroke than a 350, 3.25" compared to 3.48", but with the same bore diameter. The slight loss in torque (compared to a tricked 350) is offset by the higher revv potential. Gearing will improve the performance even more.

The 327's rod/stroke ratio means it'll rev higher than a 350. Use good heads like a set of camel-humps, or big-valve power-pacs, to boost the CR to 9.5:1. A 215-230 degree, .450 lift hyd flat-tappet cam, a dual-plane intake and a 650 carb, and headers w/2.25" exhaust will give well over 300 streetable ponies with a redline that approaches 7K RPM.

The cost for this engine will be similar to a earlier style 350 build at a similar power level. (But you get the 327's revvs and unique factor) The motor mounts will the the same or similar to the stock 283.

The motor mounts will likely be different for a '90s model 350. The TBI 350s used in stock caprices and trucks were comparitive slugs in stock form. They made between 160 and 230 HP, and were saddled with primitive fuel injection, pollution controls, restrictive stock manifolds, snake belts and moderate compression ratios. Late 80s, early 90s Chevy V8s aren't much to start out with, cuz they require retrofitting and mods to run w/o the computer.

The 700R4 is a good tranny, but I don't know what it would take to make a 90s model work w/o the computer. You are looking at a X-member swap, linkage change, driveshaft change, etc. The TH-350 3 speed will bolt in place of most powerglides, so its an easier swap.

Good luck

Chip

Well, I certainly got enough response to my question. I have decided that to use that caprice would be bad news, so that is out. I am leaning toward rebuilding the 283, maybe putting a different manifold with a 4 barrel and a rv type cam. If anyone has any other suggestions to help boost performance, feel free to offer any. I don't really want a hotrod, more of a reliable motor with some attitude! I think I will change the powerglide to a 350 turbo if it will bolt up and will fit with my current driveline and I learn the powerglide is beyond help.
My powerglide still will not shift correctly, I went out and bought a new trans modulator,
put it in this weekend and gave it a test drive, no change, it shifts at about 15 mph, way too early for this truck. As I said before, the 283 is pretty tired so I was wondering if the trans is not shifting because the motor is not putting out enough compression? Any transmission experts out there? I was told the powerglide is a very sturdy unit so I wanted to verify that mine is good or bad so it will help me decide what to do.
Thanks all for your responses. Steve

Check with the boys at your local trans shop. I was told to change my t350 to a 700R4 it intailed changing dipstick tubes, kickdown cables and installing a on/off switch to run the overdrive solnoid. Other than that it would be a straight bolt on swap. Be SURE to get a later model 700r4 The first 3-4 years had problems....
Brad

Post your head and block casting numbers from the 283. Block #s are behind driver's head on bellhousing flange. Head #s are on the middle of the head, under valvecover and between the center valvesprings. That'll help us nail down what you're working with.

Chip

350! I'm doing a 1995 LT1 350, fuel injection... 275hp/325tq and with the 4 speed auto, somewhere around 17mpg. How do you do that with a carb.? The computer stuff isn't that difficult as long as you get the harness from the donor vehicle. Then you just reconnect it the same and put the computer somewhere.

Here's a pic (not my truck, but same setup)
[img]http://12.246.65.154/~kevmor/adtrucks/dsp_image.php?id=97&percent_w=30&percent_h=30[/img]

I agree that the SMPI FI is a killer setup. However, some of the normal shade-tree motor heads here would have trouble with the electricals and fuel systems.
You know, the in-tank fuel pump, return lines, hooking the engine sensors to the dash, changing out steering column, routing the engine harness and system grounds, etc.

Chip

A few months back HOT ROD ran a big section on the SBC. Talked alot about offset grinding the crank to come up with different displacements for every small block version. There was also a recipe for a modern 283. All I can remember is they suggested using vortec heads & intake for better airflow. The biggist reason I went with a 292 inline six is because everyone has a 350. Remember its YOUR pickup, do what works for you.