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#325223 04/14/2006 6:07 PM
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 69
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 69
I'm replacing the bed boards in a 53 Chevy 1/2 ton. Did the job 4 years ago, but due to neglect and standing water, some of the boards rotted out. This time, in addition to using a cover, I was thinking about putting some drains in. The bedboards fit so well (thanks Mar-K) that the box is watertight. I was thinking about putting a drain of some kind through one or two of the bedboards so that water would drain out. The drains would have to be placed a couple inches back from the front of the bed to clear the front sill. I was thinking maybe something like a small stainless steel fitting with a hole that would fit flush with the top of the board like a hawse pipe on a boat, but can't find what I want. Anybody done this or have any suggestions?

#325224 04/14/2006 6:16 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
don't see why you'd bother if you have a bed cover - most of these trucks as-designed have just enough angle on the bed that the water always collects at the front, and I don't use bed covers, but live in a rainy area - I drill holes in the bed front panel, right at the bottom, and slightly below the surface level of the wood, then chamfer the wood slightly to the hole with the drill bit - works fine

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
#325225 04/20/2006 3:49 PM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 406
M
Shop Shark
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M Offline
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 406
Tex, I have been thinking about this problem, and of course you do not want the boards sitting in water. Because on your truck the front panel is bolted to the front cross sill there is quite a shelf for water and mud to accumulate. Even with a cover, moisture can get in and cause problems. Your drain really needs to be at the bottom of the boards, not at the top.

Another idea you might try, shorten the boards about 1/16" or 1/8" to provide a slight gap at the front bed panel. Then drill your drain holes in the front panel right in the bend where it bends under the front edge of the boards. Probably drill your holes about 5/16" diameter and a few inches in from each side, and be sure to paint the bare metal after drilling. Just be sure to keep the front of the bed clear of dust and mud that would accumulate and stop water from draining out.

GM added similar drain holes in the front panel of 67-72 fleet sides with steel floors. I think they just built wood floors with enough clearance to let the water drain out.

Let us know what solution you use and how it turns out.

Mar-Ktech

#325226 04/22/2006 11:26 PM
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 69
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 69
I took a little bit of advice from each of the responses. Thanks. I drilled holes at the bend in the base of the front panel, where Mar-K Tech suggested, but centered them in the small gaps between the bed boards where the metal strips go.

Had a delay because two of my bedboards from Mar-K came through damaged in shipment. Mar-K quickly dispatched 2 replacements. Good folks to work with.

I am using a different finish this time..3-4 coats of Sikkens Marine Light followed by 3 coats of Marine Gloss. Folks down on the Gulf Coast have been pleased with this combo for teak boats decks


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