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#31913 02/13/2004 4:32 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 31
W
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 31
Hey guys!

Well I'm now working on an old granny car: a 66 Chrysler with what appears to be all original equipment - including the air filter! Original owner's MOPAR maintenance card is still in the slot in the engine compartment.

Call this a break from the GM stuff for a bit.

I have a starting problem though that is probably common, but BEFORE I get down to rebuilding the carb, I thought I'd ask for some guidance.

Every time I want to start this thing after an overnight, frown I need someone else to turn it over while I mess with forcing the choke closed to almost fully closed, then after a try or three, the darn thing fires up! :confused:

1 - Installed new fuel pump and have positive gas flow to the carburetor.

2 - replaced cap, rotor, condenser, plugs and coil. Have good firing ONCE this thing starts.

3 - Timed to 10 degrees BTDC per manual. Motor seems happy with this - idles somewhat smoothly.

4 - Replaced oil and air filters and oil.

At idle, punching the gas pedal doesn't cause a backfire, but there is hesitation.

So, what do my wiser compatriots in the ongoing war to save automotive history think?

Chris in NC


Spito, spitero, huchtooey splateus!
1958 GMC Series 100 stepside
1954 Chevrolet Bel Air 4-DR sedan
1966 Chrysler Newport 2-DR hardtop
#31914 02/13/2004 8:34 PM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
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Have you checked to see if the distributor advance weights are moving freely and the springs are there? Does the vacuum advance work? If those things are ok it's probably the carb, although you may want to check the compression, because if it is low you will have a heck of a time getting it started.


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A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
#31915 02/14/2004 2:44 AM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 55
B
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Posts: 55
What type of choke setup does it have. I use my manual choke every time my engine is cold. I usually choke the carb, pump the pedal once, and crank it over. Almost always on the first try (usually only after a second) she'll start right up.

I would definately check out your choke.

John


1968 Chevy C-10, 250 and 3 speed on floor, Hedman headers, Offy intake, Edelbrock 600cfm 4 barrel, HEI
1966 Chevy C-10, motor and tranny went into the '68. Waiting to be restored.
#31916 02/14/2004 2:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 17
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If you have to get under the hood to close your choke than your choke is not working properly. If you hit the gas pedal once to the floor this should release the choke and it should close completely by it self on a cold engine. If this is not happening than I suggest you check it out. Could be linkage is dirty or choke is not set properly. Also it could have an electric control to close the choke linkage and that might be frozen or bad. Don't remember just what it has. Been a long time since I worked on one.
Good Luck

#31917 02/14/2004 2:51 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
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This is what I do in the cold, when the choke doesn't close properly:

Pump the gas two or three times and then immediately take your foot off the gas and hit the starter. Just as it catches, you can give it a little more throttle. This procedure acts like a choke by creating a rich mixture and restricting the air. This works best on a good old v8.

Another little trick is to let go of the starter as soon as it fires the slightest amount. On a standard conventional ignition, the lack of starter draw allows the system voltage to recover and allows for a hotter spark.


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