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#30595 02/14/2003 9:29 AM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,897
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For thos who are interested-

Normal vacuum: All motors regardless of number of cylinders all have about the same vacuum. 15 to 20 inches of mercury (in-Hg) At wide open throttle (WOT) it will approach 0. On deceleration it can briefly go as high as 25 to 28 in-Hg. I think higher compression motors are at the high end while our big lumbering 360;s are middle to low end with 454's being the lowest. Don't quote me on that. For every 1000 feet above sea level, normal readings will drop 1 in-Hg
Cranking vacuum: 1-4 in-hg when cranking with the ignition disabled and throttle at WOT.
Operating vacuum: 15-20 in-Hg at idle. 19-21 in-Hg at steady 2500 rpm. About 0 at WOT. 25-28 while decelerating. In all cases the needle should be fairly steady.
Low stead reading: Leaking gasket carb base, leaky vacuum hose (biggest FSJ problem), late ignition timing or late crankshaft timing (jumped timing chain?)
Low fluctuating needle: Needle fluctuates three to eight inches below normal. Suspect a leak in the intake manifold gasket.
Regular drops: Two to four inch consistent drop. Likely a leaking valve. Perform a leakdown and compression check to isolate the bad valve.
Irregular drops: Two to four inch occasional drop. Sticking valve or ignition misfire. Do a leakdown and compression check as well as inspecting the plugs for fouling.
Rapid vibration: A rapid 4 in variation at idle combined with exhaust smoke indicate worn valve guide. Perform leakdown test to confirm. If rapid vibration occurs with an increase in engine speed, check for a leaking intake manifold gasket or head gasket, weak valve springs burned valve or ignition misfire.
Slight fluctuation: A slight 1 inch fluctuation may mean ignition problems Check all tune up items and try an ignition analyzer.
Large fluctuation: Perform compression or leakdown test to find a weak or dead cylinder or blown head gasket.
Slow Hunting: Needle moves slowly through a wide range. Check for clogged PCV, incorrect idle mixture or carb to manifold gasket leaks.
Slow return after revving: Snap throttle to WOT until engine at 2500 rpm. then release. Vacuum should drop to 0 then go to 25-28 then back down to normal. If vacuum returns slowly and doesn't peak the rings may be worn. If there is a long delay, look for a restricted exhaust. If the exhaust seems restricted, disconnect at manifold and repeat the now loud test. grin


There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
#30596 02/14/2003 1:46 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 122
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Shop Shark
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Posts: 122
Great info, thanks for posting! One question, where is the best place to connect the vacuum gauge when checking a 235? I have been told to connect it to the carb and the manifold, which is best. Thanks.


Steve
55 1st Series 3/4 ton
#30597 02/14/2003 10:39 PM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
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The manifold is usually the easiest and gives the best signal.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
#30598 02/15/2003 8:13 AM
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What 4otf said smile


There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
-
-
Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
#30599 02/15/2003 8:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
C
'Bolter
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I disconnect my vacumn wiper hose from the intake and connect the gauge there. At idle, mine ran a smooth 22#. Needle barely flickers....


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.

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