The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Line sets for dual master cyl conversion? Seen any?

Ok, I've got my adapter bracket and dual master in hand. The fun part is going to be plumbing it up. Anybody seen a pre-bent line set for replumbing/replacing the existing lines for the swap? I have emails into Inline and Classic Tube, but was wondering if anyone had seen them somewhere. I'm probably going to wind up ordering some line and fittings and trying it make it up myself.

Good luck finding pre-fabbed lines. Summit sells your favorite line sizes (3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8) in rolls of 25' for about 15-20 bucks and bags of tubing nuts to go with it for about $7/bag. Get a pipe cutter, a flaring tool and a tube bender and you will be all set. Biggest challenge is grinding the appropriate bevel on the ends of the tubes...I made a jig that is used with my bench grinder that works well.

I bought tube and made my own. I've looked but have never seen a kit for the conversion.

I spent a day on a creeper measuring distances and planning the route, then went to the NAPA two blocks away and bought different lengths of lines with flares and fittings already attached. NAPA also had a line bending tool, but for the most part I massaged it by hand. Avoid tight-radius bends, and don't try to straighten once you've bent the line or it will crack.

Draw a picture of the way you'd like to run the lines with the distances between the master and T-blocks and wheel cylinder hose fittings, take the diagram to the local parts guy. Try to err on the long side. It's easier to make a gentle "S" bend than "stretch" a short line with tight bends.

www.mpbrakes.com Napa made a line for me in the store while I waited, worked out great. LOL

get a piece of weld rod and prebend it where you want it to go, you should double flair your connections, Dont bother with stainless that is a whole different storie

I used a piece of heavy copper wire, the size that is used for grounding a home elect panel, its about a 1/4 inch[ there maybe larger sizes] Then i put on the correct fitting on one end, then i heated the end of the wire red hot and cooled in water,then peened the end to a flair with the help of a flairing tool clamp.This lets you put the fitting on at one end after routing through frame/ crossmember or whatever. Then you can do offsets and bends working away from the fixed end. And when you get to where you are going with it cut wire [a little bit long] put on the fitting with flair and then go back and adjust bends and offsets for straitness/ looks/ clamping
This gives you a RE-BENDABLE, NON-KINKING way of making a patern. I did this when i had a set of lines made up in stainless. It seems that Inline-Tube did not have a patern for the driver side rear axel on a 46 1 ton. this method will work great for routing new lines and finding the best route Hope this can help