The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Anyone used the disc brake kit from CPP?

I am thinking about getting the disc brake bracket kit from CPP.
Has anyone used it, or know of someone that has?
thanks,
Mike

I'm working on one. I started a thread on these kits you can read here. Unfortunately I did not get a chance to complete the CPP installation. The kit is complete, and they are very good to respond if you have any problems with the kit. They are a pleasure to deal with. Check out the other thread.

I've been working on one tonight. I ran into several un-expected problems.
A steering clearance problem-
Instructions say: The caliper bracket should clear the king pin locknut. If not, you may need to grind the threads on the lock pin flush with the nut.
Actual: Filed the threads flush, filed some off the nut, then had to grind some out of the caliper bracket to get clearance. Also had to grind a little off the steering stop to get it to clear caliper bracket.

The caliper brackets have a slight bend to them. The instructions don't say whether the bend goes inboard or outboard and the picture isn't clear. So you'll know: the bends go inboard.

Instructions say: If the bearing will not go on, use a piece of 180-grit emery cloth take down the spindle.
Actual: You will need to sand a bunch off the spindle. The inner race needs to slide on and off with the assembly. It doesn't stay in place like the stock one did.

Another problem I have encountered but haven't tried to solve yet-
The power master cylinder bracket doesn't bolt up to my '54 GMC master cylinder bracket. It lacks about 1/4-3/8" meeting up. I don't know if it's because '54 is different from previous years, GMC is different from Chevy or the bracket is wrong. I'll post the solution as soon as I figure it out.

Cletis, I did not get the mc bracket from CPP. My '54 has the hydramatic, and there were known clearance issues. I used the old mc as a guide when I built my bracket, kept the same distance for the pedal rod as the original, but moved the whole operation farther back to get the clearance. I posted some photos here a while back.
I've mounted Buffalo's brackets on the truck, but did not compare his to the CPP ones to see if they put everything in the same place. Keep posting what you find, this information will help others. Wish I was farther along on my installation of Buffalo's kit. I did check the bearing race fit and it was okay. I got the bearings from D & D, and posted the bearing #'s here. Are they the same as what you have? :confused:

splashoil, I didn't think to write down the bearing nos. They are installed now.

I pulled the master cylinder off a '50 Chevy today and tried the CPP bracket on it. Doesn't fit right there either. I think I found the problem. The frame rail and the m/c mount are not parallel, but the mounting surfaces of the CPP bracket are. If I place the bracket parallel to the m/c mount, the legs that mount to the frame stick out and there is about a .175" gap between the m/c mount and the brkt. (The picture is with the legs flush with the frame) I think if I re-bend the legs that mount to the frame and shim the gap at the m/c mount I can make it work. I'll have to tweak the diagonal brace a little too because it fouls on the crossmember.

[img]http://www.jbhardin-gallery.com/trucks/mc1.jpg[/img]

Cletis, I'm sorry I forgot to mention that fact about the bracket not being paralell with the frame. When I built mine, that was a major deal to keep the bracket I built like how the original mc was oriented to the pedal bracket and stock pedal. You are on the right track.

Cletis, I did not use a booster, but my bracket design could be changed a little to use one. Take a look at the photos I posted in '54 hydramatic mc upgrade here. From what I see in your photo, it looks like the rod assembly is a little long. Also I would probably want to cut off the strap that bolts to the mc bracket and then place it at the position and angle that actually works to position it correctly. I used a soap stone to mark the location to weld the strap then tacked it and put it back until I had the angle just right. The flange on my bracket where the mc or the booster would mount is maybe an inch or so back from the stock mc frame bracket.

Crowbar65, Just finished putting disc and power brake unit from CPP on my 56 GMC. I had no major problems, took a minute or two to figure out which way to mount caliper braket. I did spend a little time adjusting the linkage to what I thought was correct, a little guidance in the instruction sheet would have been nice. My Stock wheels (6 lug 16 inch) just barely hit the caliper, solved the problem by purchasing a set of 3/16 inch spacers from CPP (about $20), lug bolts are long enough to support the use of thin spacers. Bled brakes and test drove. Work great. I would have to recommend this product, no problems that were not easy to overcome. Roy

I worked on fitting my bracket today. I called CPP for advice but their tech reps don't work on Monday. :rolleyes:
I bent the legs that bolt to the frame a little to get the leg that bolts to the old M/C bracket parallel to the brkt. After the bend there was 1/4" gap so I cut the leg off and rewelded it where it needs to be. All that fit up nicely.
The cross brace was another story. :confused: The end of it that bolts to the frame fouled on a crossmember rivet with the hole centered at the edge of the rivet. And it has a wierd angle bend where it bolts to the booster. After tweaking the bend that was already in it and putting a couple more slight bends in it I got it fitting right.
Keep in mind this is a '54 GMC. You may or may not have this trouble with your Chevy.