The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Put Paper Towel in Bottom of Oil Change Pan

I think I'm going to get a wide range of opinions on this one but I'd like to hear what you think.

I did an oil change right after I broke in the cam on my rebuilt 261 on Feb. 15. When I did a 125 mile oil change last weekend, I put a Brawny paper towel in the bottom of the dry collection pan and dumped the oil into it. I lifted the paper towel to check for any metal. There was none.

The oil made most of the paper towel stiff but there was a 2" x 4" area that was whiter and mushy. It was as gooey as a jellyfish. I think it must have been caused by water. There was no greenish antifreeze color to it. I think a couple of cc's of water could have done this.

Question: How much water condensate can you get in oil by just standing on nice days followed by frosty nights since Feb.? I've noticed water condensate on the outside of the engine during this time. Also, when I got it on the road, my daily drive was just 3 miles to work and back home, not enough to heat up the oil. I've talked to the engine man. He has an excellent reputation and isn't much worried. He thinks it's condensate.

Put a paper towel in the collection pan next time you change your oil. I'd like to see if this observation is common.

was that the compound the machine shop uses when assembling things? it's a white compound that can be visible in the oil first change - the green tinge was most likely your worry-vision kickin in

but yes, condensation will happen every time there's a wide temp swing, and the 3 mile daily drive means you need very frequent oil changes - my trucks are mainly short trippin around a small town, and the internal condensation is really a drag

Bill

Wally you got a good 180 thermostat? Are you running pcv? These motors have to run hot and a route has to exist for the vapors from cold combustion and just like you mentioned temperature changes cold iron and warm moist air. If you have the road draft it has to be clean, and some air movement through rocker cover vents or vented cap to assure air flow. I'm converting my trucks over to pcv for this reason and fuel economy as I find the parts.

It's a good 180 degree thermostat. I measured 177 deg. with a thermocouple in the radiator after the thermostat had opened. I did drill a 7/64 in. hole in it to prevent air pockets in the head as was suggested by some folks here. That also makes it warm up more slowly.

I don't have a PCV valve but I'm thinking of putting one in where the breather tube fits. I think Ralphy posted something on that.

I didn't see the Prestone green. Maybe we would all be surprised at how much water condensate gets in our oil if we don't warm it up all the time.

Wally, making water is a problem for any container that experences temp changes. That's why aircraft fuel tanks are checked for water, but engines make water too. Running a 195 degree stat will speed the boil off process. But three miles just isn't enough time to get that job done.

A Harvard (Harvard Corp. of Evansville, Wis.) oil filter will trap water. This is an add-on, by-pass type engine oil filter. The Harvard filter will fill with water/coolant and have to be changed more often than if you drove it far enough to cook off the water. But better the water is in the filter where you can remove it than stay in the engine forever till the next service.

You could check for water next oil change you by loosening the drain plug when the engine is at room tempature. Any water/coolant should be on the bottom and seep out after setting inoperative for a few days. But it will probably take a lot of water for this to happen.

Or warm the engine as normal and take a sample durning the drain for analysis. This would tell you how much water/coolant you are dealing with. An oil sample is 10/15 bucks. Regular sampling, over time, can tell you a lot about the health of your engine. The lab will send you the results via fax, email or snail mail. Mike