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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
Doing my first stovebolt engine, only 2nd engine ever. 261 six. Everything looks real clean on this engine, which I had running on stand recently. I wasn't gonna tear-down, but changed mind as going in COE and hard to get out if bad or problems again. One valve spring (intake) was broken, but valve still worked until you touched the spring. All the valves look good from first look. All are oiling good. On head bolts, I didn't see any special looking bolt for oil passageway to valve train! Is there one on 261? No little tube in side cover either. There was hardly a ridge on any cylinder and all pistons came right out w/out cutting it. Rings and pistons looked fairly new and nice. Rod and main bearings all smooth and uncolored, look new. Even the rear main seal, which was a rubber unit with a metal core looked good. Is this a replacement fot the rope one or did they have rubber on 261? So, now off to shop to get checked and cleaned and measured. I'm pretty sure I'm not gonna bore, think this is low mileage engine or recent rebuild. Even the cam looks fine to me, I'll ask the shop. I can hear the money drain already! Kaching! eek


G.L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750


MM R tractor, Speedex
and Power King tractors
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 523
J
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Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 523
If the piston rings don't cut your fingers and the rings don't move up and down in the ring lands I be you don't have to bore it.

Look at the back of the bearings and their contact with the caps....if that looks even and not spotted
Runn'em

Clean-new rings-assembly lube-torque-run

Hey it could happen

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
If you feel the top of the cylinder wall just under the ridge, you will detect the worst part of the taper. If it is a recent rebuild that is not rebored, the taper will be there with little or no ridge.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
I just got my '62 261 fired up in my '50 this weekend after waiting for a new radiator. It really has a lot more power than the old 216. The later blocks have the neoprene main seals from the factory and oil through a passage from head to block, and don't need the oil line in the lifter gallery. If your block is in that nice of shape I agree with Proffit, get new rings, get the head done up right, and run it. Use new springs on all the valves, get the seats ground, and put in new valve guide seals. Paint it green!


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
I would recommend installing the umbrella style valve seals, if they're not already there. Also, do the exhaust valves have hardened seats? And, yes, all new springs and keepers.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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