The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What about slick 50?

What do you men think of putting the Slick 50 type oil treatments in a never-rebuilt 235 with 125000 miles on it? Good or bad idea? Also, what kind of lube should I use in the steering gear box? Manual just says "steering gear oil" but doesn't give any weights, etc...

Thanks for anyone's input.

I've dealt with two Ad steeing boxes. There was a discussion on here maybe about two years ago and there was a few different lubes people were useing. I picked up on 90wt.. Tried it and leaked. Am useing what didn't all leak out and bearing grease right now. For a little over a year is holding up good. As for any additive I've never noticed a quick big difference. Like with Prolong I even called them, they sure want you to substitute alot and that stuff seems real light. So I used about a quarter in the tranny of the Dodge again no big difference I'm going to take it out. In the '54 I used Slick 50 tranny, maybe it's a little easier to shift. As for adding to engine oil to quite valves and such nothing has worked better than keeping them adjusted and useing a GOOD qaulity oil with frequint changes.
My Dos Pesos
Adios, Kip

As far as the steering gear lube goes, "Jim V." recommended the following in a post to the old-chevy-truck maillist:

Goodwrench Steering Gear Lubricant part #1052182 (group 8.800) from your Chevy dealer. It comes in a 10oz. tube and It usually has to be ordered (4 tube pak minimum) I ordered a 4 pak myself a couple of weeks ago and it isn't here yet - gonna go back up there an' make a fuss in 'nother week or so. Jim says it looks like a mixture of 90wt and grease but doesn't seem to separate and that it takes about three tubes to fill a freshly rebuilt steering box. Cost me $25 and change.

I've used slick 50 in a number of rigs for a long time, and had mishaps, twice, where it saved an engine, I think... Before I ever used it, I wrote consumer reports and asked about it, and they replied that it does exactly what the manufacturer claims... It coats moving parts and reduces friction. I read somewhere that 80% of an engine's wear happens when you first start it up, before oil pressure is picked up... Don't know if thats true, and if it is even close, then the slick 50 helps... I can only testify that I have gotten lots and lots of miles out of engines that I've used it in. Over a quarter of a million in a dodge cummins I had, and years and years of service out of a miller welder (onan)

I was somewhat impressed with the demonstration engine they have at the county fair where they use slick-50 in the crankcase,drain it and run the engine all day long with a dry crankcase.

hey luke me e-100 super van has slick50 in it and been sitting now for 10 yrs now.
when we get it emptyed out we'll see if she bangs or booms when we put a fresh batt in and pour gas in de carb huh??

most of that stuff is snake oil

You CAN do this at home and you don't need Slick 50 or any other snake oil. Notice that they never run these display engines at anything above idle. An engine in good condition can survive on the thin film between bearing surface and crankpin, as long it's properly cooled and not under a load.

The carny pitchman may not want you to know about this web site but check out:
www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/9707/slick.htm
Then decide for yourself.

Here is the link that works:
his link

I know I know, don't beleive everything you see on the net but for sure I'm draining that stuff out of my vehicles. Sixpacks been around for a while and if he's not useing it and going to post to a link that saz sick 50 isn't the greatest thing since soft spread butter, I don't want it.
Adios, Kip

You would be better off to use the soft spread butter than any of that junk! IE: STP,Slick 50, Prolong, etc, etc, etc.

I have run slick 50 in all my gas burners for years & I think its good stuff. I wont run it in my Dodgebolt Cummins [ ' 97 12 valve ] because its not recommended by Cummins, they said be suspicious of anything ya have to "shake up" before introducing to the existing engine oil.

If there was some ingredient that could really do as they say, and I was an oil manufacturer, I would just add it to the regular engine oil I sold and have the best oil on the market.

mothertrucker
I have a 24 valve cummins and have added a PTFE resin base additive to it, with no problems. PTFE was originaly developed by NASA to use in the space program.
It has been in the diesel engine I have now since the first oil change. It presently has 64,000 +.
I will add it again the next oil change too,with no worrys about doing it again. Actually some of the proudcers of PTFE oil additives make one for large diesel engines. I put 1.5 quarts to a cummins inline 6 in a pick-up due to the amount of oil they take over a gasoline engine.
Also I have run it in gas engines with no problems either.

I might of dreamed this but I remember a tv commercial ooooh maybe about 10 years ago. Where they Scientist had about 25 engines running with the oil drained out of them and they all froze up except for the one that had used regular ole Pennsoil in it before they drained it out. This was before the time of curring or coating. If I was Mr. GM and I was going to guarentee an engine for 100,000 miles I would demand owner use one of these hi $$$ additives. Might want to see NASAs test results on this stuff, seen why not now why? Oh BTW my mixture of 90wt and bearing grease is still holding up good in my steering box.
Good Bless America and Adios, Kip

On the steering box, you can use a moly base chassis lube. I don't recommend the lithium base, it's thicker when it's cold.

I had my steering box rebuilt last year and ordered the lube from Chevrolet. It comes in a 4 pack and costs about $7 a tube. You will need just under 2 tubes. I used what is recommended and not a concoction.

Just to throw my 2 cents worth in on the Slick 50 issue:

I would recommend using a premium oil and forget about the additives. Premium oil has additives blended into a compatible package that meets all the needs of a healthy engine. I think synthetics have been the biggest improvement in automotive oil products in a long time.

An unhealthy engine is another story. Worn parts cannot be repaired/restored by any additive. One must realize that anything done to counter the effect of such an engine, like aftermarket additives, heavy oil, etc. is temporary, because an unhealthy engine is living on borrowed time.

YMMV

OOPS! Just got back from my Chebby dealer and the Goodwrench Steering Gear Lubricant part #1052182 (group 8.800) I ordered has been discontinued - They gave me my money back.

What ever happened to that graphite based motor oil that they used to sell about twenty years ago? I was putting that junk in my old 71 Poncho with a 250 six. Got 200,000 out of it before I sold it.