The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop small block identification

A few months ago I purchased a Chevy pickup in which the previous owner had changed engines. I trying to identify exactly what I have before tearing it down for a repair. The owner said it was out of a 76 Chevelle, but much of what he said has proven to be untrue. The numbers on the front engine pad are TO623CRX, the C could be an O, but looks more like a C. The numbers cast into the cylinder head are 333882 also a seperate number F18 space 76 or 75 I can't be sure but I think 76. The heads may not be origional to the block, as they are panted a different color than the block. Thank you , I hope someone can help. I have to pull the haeds at least, as It appears the previous owner misadjusted the valves and ran it that way burning some valves.

the heads are from a 350ci, 72 up [june 18, 75 or 76?] so could be 76 chevelle 350
that number from the pad needs a engine prod list book and indicates exactly what the application was and what equipment was originally on it, if someone has the book they could decipher it, but there'll be a number cast on the block that'll show what the block is and date too - no doubt 350!

Bill

Bill, I appreciate your getting back to me so quickly. There are some numbers cast into the block back by the bell housing, but I am unable to make them out with the engine in place. Thanks again.
John

The CRX suffix was used on two versions of the 350 in 1975--a 4bbl, 155hp version for Chevelles and Impalas/Caprices, and a 2bbl, 145hp version for Camaros and Novas.

My source for this info is here.

here are a couple of other sights that might help you out. good luck on you project..mike j
http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html
http://www.mortec.com/

Those web sites are a big help. I just added them to my favorites. Thanks again
John

The good news is, all you need is a set of Vortec heads for about $500 bucks and a more modern cam to more than double your horsepower. Those heads you have are low performance, low compression heads and basically they suck.

If you do go the Vortec route, then I would recommend the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Vortec manifold for max power. Or if you want the heat risers functional, then get the Performer RPM without the air gap feature. Power is only incrementally lower than the air gap.

I scavenge up all those "junk" low-compression heads my friends throw away, and then beat them at the race track with their own junk! A .100" angle-mill job and a set of big valves turns it into a 60CC high-compression head that will run rings around their high-dollar "Camel Hump" heads! The nice part is, they still have the low compression casting numbers, and most tech inspectors aren't sharp enough to spot the angle-mill job! Great for "claimer" engines that look stock!
Jerry

hey John, where did you find the casting numbers? I've been looking for my casting numbers on my '68 school bus smallblock for a while and cant find them under the gunk. it's an unoriginal chevy smallblock claimed to be a 305 but I dont know for sure