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Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for
MORE wrenching? 
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#28731 12/21/2003 6:23 PM | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 65 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 65 | I had the engine rebuilt (235) for my burb 2 years ago and it has sat dry ever since. What do I need to do to fire it up and keep any stupid mistakes to a minimum?  | | |
#28732 12/21/2003 7:54 PM | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 506 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 506 | If it were mine I would pull the plugs and squirt a little oil in each cyl. If the pan was not filled with oil do it now. I would get some 30 wt HD and a quart of Chevrolet Engine Oil Supplement (EOS). Any chevy parts counter has it. Pull the valve cover and then crank it over til you see oil oil at the rocker arms. Then put it back together and fire it up. Run it at 1500 rpm's for 1/2 hr to break in the cam. Let it cool down and retorque the head bolts,manifold bolts, etc. Fire it up reset the idle, check timing etc. Change oil.
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#28733 12/21/2003 10:11 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | I know there is controversy about whether rings should be oiled or dry for brake in at start up. The new trend is to have the rings and cylinders dry.
I would pull the distributor and spin the pump with a drill motor until you see oil at the rockers.
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#28734 12/21/2003 11:15 PM | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | I would be cautious about using any oil additives unless they are specifically designed for break in duty.
Also - don't even try to start it till your burb is ready to drive (brakes work, cooling system road ready, good tires, steering close enough to drive) etc. Ask Tony P how many smokey engines he has seen from "driveway break ins" instead of properly seating the rings by working the motor as prescribed by the ring manufacturers.
Most of all - keep an eye on oil pressure and engine temperature once you do start it up. Don't want to have to rebuild your rebuild any time too soon. | | |
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