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#28509 11/04/2003 1:30 PM | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 86 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 86 | Do you do the timing with the vacume line connected? I do know to put the octane adjustment to 0 , but I'm a little fuzzy on the vacume thing. I just replaced the Vacume Advance and did the timming with the Vac line attached. It seems to run well but did I screw up?
I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure that you realize that what you heard is not what I meant!
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#28510 11/04/2003 6:02 PM | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 506 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 506 | Yes you did, not a big problem though. Go back disconnect the vac from the carb and plug the carb. Put the octane selector back on "0" and bolt the dist down. Then loosen the dist screw on the front side of the dist. Hook up your timing lite to #1 plug etc and point to the hole on the top of the starter. The goal is to get the pointer lined up with the ball in the flywheel if its a 216 or line or other marks in different engines. To do this you need to turn the dist either one way or the other. You may have to do the white out thing on the ball and pointer to see in the dark. Be patient and sneak up on this stuff. If you put a vac guage on the intake manifold you will see the vac climb or fall depending upon where you turn the dist. You want it 20 or 21 if you can. Note that when the vac is highest the timing will be right on the ball on the flywheel or marks. Thats about 5 degrees advanced in some engines. Good job. Then adjust the air fuel screw to get the highest and steady needle on the vac guage. Finally adjust your rpm. Done.
"Drugs are money, money is power, power is security." - Kent Heiner Nedrow population 2212 Carbon footprint family of 2/11 tonnes of CO2/yr
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#28511 11/04/2003 6:03 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | You need to disconnect the advance and plug the vacuum line to set your timing. Also, be sure your points are properly set, they effect the timing, too. And set your idle as low as possible.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
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#28512 11/04/2003 6:05 PM | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 506 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 506 | I always forget to move the octane selector back to where it was when I started. If you can't remember dial in about 3-4 clicks (A) advanced, thats 2 degrees each mark. If you get a little spark knock when you drive it take a couple of degrees out of the octane setting. If no knock add a couple til it does then back off. These engines need advance at idle and just off idle, they will run better and cooler. Hopes this helps.
"Drugs are money, money is power, power is security." - Kent Heiner Nedrow population 2212 Carbon footprint family of 2/11 tonnes of CO2/yr
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#28513 11/04/2003 7:49 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | It really doesn't matter much when you are using ported vacuum as long as you set the timing at low RPM so the vacuum advance hasn't kicked in. You can watch the can to determine if it is.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#28514 11/04/2003 10:17 PM | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 86 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 86 | Thanks guys! When I did it the RPMs were ~525, but the Pot was not moving untill I hit the throttle. I'll re do the timing correctly this time. I do have a vac gauge, and meter.
I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure that you realize that what you heard is not what I meant!
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