The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 4 easy questions

1. O-ringing the head (or block). Is this a stock process or something done aftermarket for added performance? Is there any potential for problems if not done.

2. Head bolts. Is re-use just an unwise thing to do or something that you NEVER do? I'm having a fairly difficult time finding any at the local parts store. I'll going to check a machine shop nearby.

3. On the shortblock I bought recently some rocket scientist at the machine shop erroneously put the oil pickup tube mount bolt on the #2 main (instead of the #5 - or vice versa). Should I fix this myself or just try mounting the pickup tube on the #5 using the main cap bolt?

4. The only torque wrench I can find locally in 3/8" has its measurements in inch/lbs instead of ft/lbs. I've seen this in 2 different stores. I would guess that I could divide the reading by 12 to get the actual ft/lb. value. Is this correct?

Thanks!
-wftyler

I'm no expert, but I know a few of these answers:
1. Aftermarket, and from what I hear, not necessary unless you are putting out insane amounts of power.

4. I have both a 3/8" (in ft./lbs.) and a 1/2" drive torque wrench, and I like the 1/2" much better.

You're building a 292, right?

1) O-ringing is done to prevent blown head gaskets in engines that have 12:1 compression, burn alcohol or NO2, or are supercharged. Worry about o-ringing a block when you build a Chrysler 426 Max-Wedge that burns a combination of nitromethane and moonshine.

2)Us 235 guys have to re-use headbolts all the time, as new head or main bearing bolts are made of unobtanium. You're prolly OK as long as your old ones aren't pitted or rusted.

3) Take the shortblock back to where you bought it and insist that they make it right. God knows what else the moron on duty got wrong. Prolly while drinking fuel for answer #1. Pickup tube funnyness is a popular cause of crank failure.

4) Get a good 1/2" drive "clicker" style torquewrench from NAPA. The inch/lbs won't go high enough for engine building.

I have never replaced head bolts . I have overhauled 6 engines , all old stovebolts , also a smog 305 v8.
What are you rebuilding , an old 216 with 6.25 : 1 compression ,,,, ?
or a screaming big horse power 355 with 12 : 1 comp ??

I forgot to mention, I'm building a 292 (see pics at http://www.geocities.com/tylersfs/66_Pickup_3.html & [URL=http://www.geocities.com/tylersfs/66_Pickup_4.html)]http://www.geocities.com/tylersfs/66_Pickup_4.html[/URL)]

Thanks for the replies guys!

My .02 cents to add.
1.O-ring for really high performance is necessary.Not needed on your engine.
2.Your head-bolts are reuseable if they are visibly in good shape.(some engines use what is called "torque-to-yield" bolts which are thrown away after one use)
yours are fine,just clean them up so the threads are clean and you will get accurate torque.
3.Have your pick-up tube bolt put in the correct location.should be no problem doing it yourself with a good torque wrench.
4. get a half inch drive ft.lb torquewrench.
I know I am repeating some of what the other guys are saying,but if we all are agreeing on the same thing, it must have some credibility to it.If we pound it in real good, it might just stick!

Like the other guys have said just get a ft/lb torque wrench. Half inch drive is the best 'cuz you can just get a reducer to use 3/8" sockets. Much more flexible this way. As for conversion from in/lb to ft/lb I think it is MULITPLY by 12 as there are 12 inches to a pound. I might be wrong on this, I slept through this lesson in machining class in high school! Any of you math whizzes out there wanna straighten me out?

I sat and thought about it for a while, and after the Mountain Dew got into my system I realized that I was wrong in the above statement about converting in/lbs to ft/lbs. You do have to divide by 12 to get the ft/lbs value, as there the feet will be a smaller number. For example if you have 144 in/lbs you divide by 12 to get 12 ft/lbs. That's how it works. Sorry for the confusion.