The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop '66 GMC COE for $800 Canadian

I am new to the forums here...anywho...I picked up an awsome deal on this truck. It is a Canadian GMC 960, which as far as I can determine it is equivilant to the US version of the 4 or 5000 series truck. I picked it up and drove it 30 miles home and everything seemed OK except the brakes, and later the clutch when I got to use it for a couple days. I am sure they are related as it is a shared master cylinder. It's pretty tough finding any info on this truck. So far "Jolly" helped me find this

-VIN# 6T96803650405E

Which breaks down as follows
6 = year 1966
T = 72" Tilt cab
9 = GMC
68 = model
03 = wheelbase
6 = inline 6
50405 = serial number
E = GVW class

A couple questions I have...
1. What is a 68 model type?
2. 03 wheelbase is what?
3. E GVW class is what? 19000 lbs is what it says on the GVW plate. (Actually, it says if you go over that you void the warranty)

I have always wanted to have a "Flat-Front"... Cool looking, and very cool to drive! I will have a couple pics of it soon. Thanks for any help people can provide.

Hey, I've got one of those! My brakes are acting up and clutch too. I'm trying to locate a MC for mine now. One's I find are close to $200! They are a dual chamber, one for hyd clutch. Does your clutch just seem to work less and less as you use it? That's what mine does. I got a new slave cylinder for it right away, mine was frozen, it worke fine for awhile, now won't hold. I have a cyl on order, I'll let you know if it works. It's a rebuilt, only $37! Makes me think it won't be right one, but we'll take a look. Jolly is best help on reading the Vin's and some other things. Mine has a Toro-flow Diesel DH478 in it. Was a Firetruck tanker. Wish it had a six or something else really. It runs good now, have barely had running enough to drive much, but have moved it around some. Fuel tank leak is another problem, finally found a fella to fix that, got to get it up to him. If brakes worked and clutch correct, could drive on road. I have some little parts and stuff from a parts truck I scrapped if you need something, I'll see if I saved it!

You can o-haul those cylinders yourself. There
is not that much in there. All you need is a cylinder hone& electric drill. The kits are
available from any parts store & reasonably
priced.

That sound exactly the same as what's happening to mine. I used it for a while knowing the brakes had to be pumped and pumped to get them to work, but as I was using it, I found out the hard way the clutch started acting up, when I squished the fridge up against my garage. In order to get the clutch to fully dis-engage, I have to engage it fully, then dis-engage it, or I creep along and can't get it outta gear. But if you only have 3 feet to the garage....

The truck is in pretty good shape, except the fender flares, they are pretty rotten. The wheel wells have some rust I have to deal with as well, but over all it is not too bad, especially for the price!

Ok Here is a bit more info, I had some of it wrong from before.

6 is be the number for series, which in your case is a 60, & 8 is the wheelbase, 175". 03 is for body style or model, Cab & Chassis.

I just don't have any info on the Canadain trucks, and took a wild @$$ guess by using info found here: 1960 - 1966 Canadian Chevrolet & GMC VIN which only covers light trucks.

so your brake down should be:

6 = year 1966
T = 72" Tilt cab
9 = GMC
6 = series, 60
8 = wheelbase 175"
03 = model, Cab & Chassis
6 = inline 6
50405 = serial number
E = GVW class

GVW class is juct that, the higher the letter, the heavyer the truck. 1/2 tons are A, 6000 lbs or less, 3/4 & 1 tons are B, 6001 to 10000 lbs and so on.

Your truck would be about the same as a US Built GMC L-4000, which have a gvw class of E and are rated for 19500 lbs. Did you check out the info on my site on GMC L-models ? also see the GMC 3500-9500 Year & Model Information page too.

Hope that is of some use.