The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What's the difference in rear leaf springs on 47-54 and 55 1st?

I figured this would be the best spot to ask a suspension question? OK, I would like to know why the rear leaf springs on a 47-54 are only $190 a side and for the 55 1st series, they are nearly $400 a side?!?!?! Does anyone know what the difference is? I thought the 54 and 55 1st were practically the same truck?

LeftEar55,

Just a guess: open driveshaft for the first time on a 1/2 ton truck (and thus a different rear axle)?

Tim

The only difference is where the hole is drilled for the axle housing. There is no good reason for them to be twice as expensive.

Thanks for the quick reply! OK, I'm not really sure exactly what an open rear is? I did see somewhere that 55 was the first year for an open rear, but I still don't know what it means. How does it affect the leaves? I'm assuming it's a completely different axle than a 54 back? I have found a 52 or 53 and I'm wondering if the leaves will work on mine? Just curious?

do a google search for espo springs.

Pre 55: Torque tube driveline. The driveshaft is enclosed in a tube fixed to the rear axle. As there is no rear u-joint, the axle is hinged to the springs. The spring perch has a pivot point, and the locator pin is forward of the axle.

55 + later: Open driveline. The driveshaft is exposed, and there is a u-joint at the rear. The axle is hard-bolted to the springs.

Having said that, I can't see why the 55's are more expensive. Do the 56-59 fit?

Yes they'll work if you drill a new hole through them. As Highflyer said above, the locator pin is forward of the axle. On yours the pin is under the axle. I don't know how hard it is to drill spring steel but I've read on this board of people doing it.

By the way, is your truck missing the springs or are you replacing weak ones? If you have old springs they can be re-arched. I had mine done for right at $100 per axle.

OK, I looked at that pre 54 truck today and now I realize what an open and closed rear end is. I understand now, from seeing how the axle is mounted to the springs. But, the springs on the truck I looked at today, look longer than my trucks' springs? I don't think I need new leaves? It's not sagging on either side and it still has a nice, stiff (bounce) to it. Mine have some rust between them and the little clamps or brackets, that keep the springs together, have popped lose. Should I need new ones? Or can I get new clamps for it or get some fabricated?

Well, if I can use the pre 54 springs from that truck, I will. The whole truck is $50 bucks. It has good glass (5 window) and maybe one rear fender. And the rear leaves look good, from what I saw today. I dunno, is it worth it?

Well, the glass and 1 fender are worth more than $50. There are a lot of posts here regarding rebuilding your springs. If they don't need re-arching, apparently disassembling them, cleaning, repainting and re-assembling is not too difficult.

There is a debate over teflon strips or buttons for between the leaves, but all agree to smooth out the inevitable "steps" where the end of each leaf rubs the next and then taper the leaf-end to reduce the wear here. NO GREASE between the leaves (attracts dirt, speeds wear).

Good luck.