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#27665 04/14/2003 6:40 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 454
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 454
Talking about my 1953 Chevy 3/4 ton. Stock front end (and stayin' that way).

I'm doing a frame up restoration/rebuild and am currently working on the tie rod. Everything looks to be in good shape, no excessive or unusual wear that I can see. I was planning on rebuilding the existing tie rod ends when a buddy suggested that I replace the old tie rod ends with the newer, non-rebuildable type.

1) Any thoughts pro or con on swapping out the tie rod ends?
2) I was going to take apart the existing ends to inspect them (to see if they even needed rebuilding). Is there any trick to removing the screw cap that holds the springs, etc. in place? 3) The tie rod is on the bench. Should I put it back in place to make it easier to remove the screw caps or can I just clamp the tie rod in the vise?

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.


Jeff Nelson

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin
"Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
#27666 04/15/2003 12:35 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12
B
Member
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12
Modern style are lots better. Just torch the tie rod ends off your steering arms, press out the old balls, and buy a new tie rod. I always go with a new tie rod, as the threads are compromised when threading the old ones off, especially if they have to be heated.


It takes a big dog to weigh a ton
#27667 04/19/2003 1:05 AM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2
H
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2
Jeff,
Rebuilding all the steering components with the newer parts is one of the best things I ever did to my 54. Make sure you also follow the rebuild manual and buy yourself a steering box rebuild kit. It is important to get the mast shaft bearings properly preloaded. This is an oversite by alot of guys who still have loose steering and have just continued to crank down on the sector gear lash adjustment. To make sure you have the mast bearings loaded correctly you also need to back off the sector gear lash completely. The shop manual does a great job explaining all this.

The forged type drag link and forged tie rod ends really improve the tightness. I have also updated my ball type wheel bearings to the new timken roller type. Combine all this with a fresh set of king pins and bushings and gas filled shocks and I guarantee you will not believe how nice the truck steers and drives. The best thing of all, it is all stock looking. Long live the straight axle.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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