The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Too tall for Task Force - Help!

I'm 6'2" and just don't fit very well in this '59. Has anybody modified a seat that helps? I'm thinking the fuel tank has to come out of the cab and I've heard a Jeep tank might fit under the bed. How about shorting the pedals. I look like a monkey shifting and braking with my knees at my shoulders. Thanks-

Are you sure it hasn't been modified already. It's been along time since I drove a 58 Cameo, but I don't remember it being that bad and I'm 6'1". I'm not disagreeing with you. Might be a real can of worms to fix. Changing the seat location would be the first choice. There is lots of information on mounting a gas tank under the truck check the archives here and on inliners.org.

Larry
68 C20 327 daily driver
63 C20 292 Camper truck
65 C10 ? Custom Cab AC,PB,PS,$flasher

Sounds weird to me. I'm 6'2" and have never felt crowded in any year pickup from the early '40s to now?

Can't believe you guys don't have a problem getting your feet up from the floor to the pedals. I'm 6'2" and 210# and it takes real thought and effort to get my big clodhoppers operating them pedels without bashing my knees on the wheel. If worse comes to worse I'll make up a seat out of plywood and foam and upholster it. It worked to give me more room in a '30 coupe I put together years ago. Was hoping there would be an easy mod for the truck cab.

I'd make sure the adjusting rails are workin right, and you've got the seat all the way back - also make sure the arms that the seat back pivots on are the right shape and don't allow the seat back to "recline" too much - then make sure your pedals are properly set to have the original travel [they can come up too high if the stop bumpers are missing] - then try doin lots of situps for a few months so that stomach flab can operate your legs properly LOL

you could also change the stock 59 wheel for a 55-6 wheel, that doesn't stick out so far so that it's easier to sit up straighter - I too am 6' something [lessthanwhenyounger], and don't find it cramped in a TF, tho' some of us do have longer legs than others - last resort you could try a seat from 1988 up GM truck, which are nicer seats and fit well [don't hafta move out the tank, which prolly won't really gain a lot of room seatwise anyway

Bill

Thanks Squeeze. We 've got a real gullywasher storm going on here today so I'll check out all your helpful suggestions tomorrow. I can however tackle one of the problems you brought up today- the sit-ups. I think as I got older I lost the rubber bumpers and now my stomach is coming out too far
Thanks!

4d9r, I think you've been driving that MGB too long. Ya that gully washer has put a crimp in a few my projects too. I'm down in San Jose.

Larry
68 C20 327 daily driver
63 C20 292 Camper truck
65 C10 ? Custom Cab AC,PB,PS,$flasher

I'm 6'2" and a bit out of shape, and I can still comfortably drive my dad's 1930 Fjord Model AA truck - and that cab is tiny compared to an AD or Task Force truck. By comparison, my dad's '51 2-ton GMC is luxurious.

Of course, I'm working on a panel truck - all the legroom I could possibly want.

I'm 6'2 and 280 lbs, and have size 15 EEEE feet. I regularly squeeze myself in small places, for some reason. I drove a Miata daily for 5 years and owned a '55 Willys CJ-5 for a while.

With the truck cabs, you need all the seat height you can get. If your seat cushion is sprung your knees will hit your chin when you are trying to drive. As long as you have enough headroom and your knees don't get pinched by the steering wheel, thicken up that bottom pad, take a little out of the back, and you will be able to shift fine. I can drive my truck really easily, even wearing motorcycle or work boots.

The sitting position in an old truck cab is about like an office chair. Upright, legs straight out, elbows against ribs when holding steering wheel. Don't try to sit like you are in a sports car (low and leaned back) and you will be pretty comfortable.

I'm in full agreement on raising the seat and getting some backward angle. Another factor is the depth of the seat back. Even removing the gas tank will only give you more leg room if the seat back is kept low and fits into the recess.

However, in making these adjustments you have to make sure you can see out of the windshield especially if the truck has a rake because of lowering the front end.

The '99 Tahoe center seat I have in my '56 filled the bill for me.

Many thanks. It's really good to know that you 6'+ guys don't have any problem fitting into these cabs. Something must be out of wack but I know I can fix whatever is broken (seat back rails, seat tracks, seat cushion, pedal stoppers ) whatever, but that will get me in there comfortably.

HA! Not so great being tall, is it? Don't you wish you were 5'8" like me? There isn't a car, truck, or motorcycle made that I can't comfortably fit in or on. Score one small victory for short people!(small, get it?) Okay, I admit it, sometimes there are instances where reaching the pedals is a stretch.(stretch! I kill me.) Seriously though, I think the PO messed with your seat. Must of been a shorty like me. Good luck.

Scott

56picup, do you have online pictures available to show this seat in your truck?

Why did you go with a middle seat over a front seat?

I imagine your 99 Tahoe middle seat is similiar to the middle seat in my 98 Suburban. Do you have the seats set up so they will flip out of the way for access behind the seat?

I am 6'4" and over 300 lbs and I sit in my 59 just fine with a stock seat and steering wheel. Yes it is tight, and yes the clutch and brake pedal seem high, BUT with a huge smile on my face driving down the raod I could be sitting on an open case of nails and I would still be happy!

I am hoping to install a newer seat with built in seats belts soon, maybe a Dakota bench.

measuring in at 5'22" i think i may be able to help you.

1, unscrew your turn signal lever, put it into a vise and bend it just after the nut so that it is closer to the steering wheel.

2, if you replace your winsheild, replace it with a non-tinted one

3, if you replace your headliner, do not put the insulation back under it. . . every 1/2" counts.

4, if you replace your seat cover, take out as much padding as u can (note: this only works if you are a hard a$$ :p )

5, heat up your gear shift stick (or whatever it is called) shere it bends, and bend it away from you (tward the passanger), make sure that it still clears your seat/dash when u do this.

6, if it is add on blinkers (like my 49), you can put the blinker stick on the right hand side. This is because your left leg is trapped between the door and the steering wheel, while your right one (that only has to move far enough to gas and brake) can "lay over" and go between the gearshift and the wheel.

7, (while i have not done it) a tilt/TELESCOPE steering wheel would be nice

8, if your seat does not already *almost hit the back of the cab, make it so it does (in my 94 **** extended cab, it clears the back seat by 1" )

9, (i have thought about, but not done) lower the floorboards, just put a 3" body lift on the pickup, and leave the floor where it is at. :rolleyes:

10, go bye an IHC Scout, cuz u will fit in one of those :p (can i say that on here :rolleyes: )

BrianK
p.s. for all of u that say "see being tall must suck" just remember, i was your height one day, but i think i like being tall better.
You on the other hand will never know the "pleasures of being tall"

northerngmc

No pics but I can explain a few things that might help.

I used the center seat because I don't like the look of tall seats/headrests sticking above the back window. BTW, I still have the gas tank inside. The seat back is about even with the window with the headrests removed and moving the tank wasn't a choice as I have my spare mounted under the bed.

Another advantage of the center seat is that it is a 60-40 so we can fit three or we can drop down the arm rest when it's just wifey and me. I can also flip up the driver's seat bottom to get to my little Sears floor jack, etc. that I keep under the seat. The passenger seat is also fully functional.

I wanted the widest seat possible so it is snug at the back cab corners, which means you can't install shoulder belts. I took a set of shoulder belts and retractors, and modified them to be lap belts.

As we retained all the seat mounts which were set up for an uneven floor, we used a combination of motor mount rubbers and washers to make sure it all sits solid. It sounds hokey but works well and doesn't look bad at all.

Just make sure that you don't get the seat mounted so high that you impede your vision front and back.

The one downfall I see to filling a cab using a seat with bolsters is that the driver sits slightly off center of the steering wheel. It doesn't seem to bother me as I've always been a little off.