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#26812 03/23/2004 1:42 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 37
5
New Guy
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Posts: 37
I'm used to working on my friends rice rockets and not classics, but I think my powerglide in my biscayne is having some issues, the car has about 52k miles on it and was wondering how hard it would be to get a 700r4 to work for me? will it bolt up to my 235?? any help on this would be greatly appreciated, everyone around my local area (saint louis mo) hasnt seemed like much help on anything I am doing to this car

#26813 03/23/2004 1:48 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Check out this tranny swap article in the Stovebolt tech tips.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
#26814 03/23/2004 2:44 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 37
5
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thanks for the help

#26815 03/23/2004 10:25 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 103
T
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Posts: 103
I'm in the process of putting a 200R4 behind my 235 in a 56 BelAir. Note: on page 2 of the tranny swap tech tip it states to remove the 3 dowel pins from the crankshaft -- however, the instructions that come with the adapter say to cut them off flush -- removing them would cause an oil leak.

#26816 03/23/2004 3:46 PM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 115
J
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Posts: 115
Removing crank dowel pins will cause an oil leak? Where will the oil come from? The crank flange is behind the rear main, so engine oil can't leak out through them, and is separated from the torque converter by the flexplate, so it is isolated from tranny fluid.

I think the adapter instructions are wrong.

Joe

#26817 03/23/2004 6:12 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,777
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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I ruined a clutch on my 1959 1-ton with a 235. One of the flywheel attaching bolts was missing when I bought it, and oil bypassed the rear main seal and soaked the clutch. If the dowel holes also pass under the flange seal, yes, you will get an oil leak! Any definite info from one of you 235 gurus?
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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#26818 03/23/2004 6:28 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 18
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It wont bolt up to your 235 . I would do a search on this in the inliners board . I have thought about doing the swap but do know of some guys having trouble breaking flywheels and starters not working with the stovebolt engine adapter kit . We went with the trusty old t-5 . Pretty smart guy up the road from me did the adapter kit in his 54 bel air and the flywheel did break on his in less than 2300 miles . No help from the company that made the adapter .So his wife was not very happy as it was her car. This was done in feb of 2003 and was the new and improved model. It broke in 8 months. I would do a real good search before i spent 500 dollars plus. I also read about it here but cant find it .

#26819 03/23/2004 6:38 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
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Shop Shark
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The outer edge of the flywheel flange on a 235 crankshaft is where the oil seal rides. So if a bolt or dowel pin is missing, oil will leak from behind rear main brng, fill the oil return area in the rear main cap, and leak out the flange. If the dowel pins can't be left in, its best to remove them and drill and tap for bolts thru new flywheel, or cut them flush with crank flange. I think the 235 is internally balanced, so make sure any flywheel used won't unbalance the rotating assy.

I have heard several reports of the aluminum bellhousing adapter cracking or the flywheel breaking. The 235 starter mounts in the stock cast-iron bellhousing with 2 bolts. This bellhousing is different than any later 63-newer chevy bellhousing, standard or automatic. I believe the PG bellhousing on your car will be different from a V8 PG bellhousing, but you'd have to compare them. The typical PG bellhousing is the same bolt pattern as a chevy TH-350, and since I know the TH-350 won't bolt up, the typical PG prolly won't work either. Some guys are using standard tranny 235 bellhousings and modding them to work with the T-5 5 speed out of a S-10 truck or similar.

chip


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#26820 03/24/2004 8:28 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Buffalo Enterprises makes an adapter from steel plate. They don't have a website but you can call 360 652 7684 and they will send you info.

I'm fixing to buy one for putting a 200-4R behind a 248.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
#26821 03/24/2004 11:23 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 103
T
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I purchased the stovebolt engine company adapter, which is aluminum. Must admit I'm not pleased to hear about these failures -- one question though -- does anyone know how the engine/tranny were supported on the vehicles that failed? I will be using front and rear engine mounts, just like the PG installation, plus a rear tranny mount. This should give more than ample support.

#26822 03/26/2004 4:19 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
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Save yourself a lot of headache and go with the T-5 swap from the S-10. You don't have to mod the bellhousing any but you will have to make some very minor changes to the T-5. You'll like it a lot more with five gears and overdrive than just four...
That's what I've got behind my '54.
r


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