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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,101 Posts1,056,179 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 58 | Recently bought our 58 and started tackling glass and weatherstrip. Most of the "glass" in it was plexiglas. So we bought an entire set of glass, minus the barn door pieces, while at Carlysle. It was a great deal! When the side glass arrived in the mail the rear sliding glass has a curve along the bottom edge. :confused: My plexiglas template has no curve along the back bottom edge. Does anyone know what is supposed to be there? Can anyone post a picture of what it should look like? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | On mine(a '64) that is where the latch goes, a small handle/latch fits into the curved area. Welcome to the bolt | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 58 | Thanks, I thought it might be for a handle of some type but I'm not sure if mine is supposed to have one there. If I have to make something I will but if they cut the glass wrong I want to fix that problem. The middle windows are both flat across the bottom and have a handle attached to the back edge of the slider. Seems to me the back ones should/could be the same.
I've visited the bolt a number of times while collecting parts to get started, lots of good information here. Hope to share as well as learn. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 456 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 456 | That curve along the bottom is not for a handle; the handle goes in the middle of the back edge of the slider.
I think the curve helps the window slide easier. That's the only reason for it that I can think of, since I've taken apart a bunch of them and nothing mounts there.
George | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 58 | Napco Man - is the curve supposed to be there for rear sliders only, have you seen them? The ones cut on my windows are between 1/2 to 5/8 inch high. I don't see how I can get a seal on them if nothing else mounts there.
I'll try to post a picture tomorrow, may be a bigger challenge than fitting the vent window was. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 456 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 456 | All the 55-59 burbs with rear sliders that I've seen have that curve in them. I'm almost at the stage of working on the sliders on my 55.2 restoration; I'll know more then.
I was thinking that they also might be there to allow water to drain through the bottom of the frame. The frames have drain holes in them, but I don't know if the water would drain without that curve.
George | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 58 | I finished assembly of the left rear this past weekend. Based on Napco Man's response I decided to try assembling the window and it fit okay. The curve cut into the slider sits below the fixed window so the draft seal glued to the frame does its job. I think I was looking at the inside and thinking it would not seal. The rear does slide easier than the middle window that has no curve cut into it.
Anyhow, I have both the left middle and left rear done now. I had to weld in new 6 inch sections on the right side middle and rear frames so it slowed me down a bit. Once you get the hang of it, it isn't too bad. Worst part of reworking the windows is preparing the frames for new paint.
I found that long bar clamps (Bessie K-clamps are wonderful) work great to pull the fixed glass in that final half-inch, no hammer needed. Also, after you get the window within a half inch of seating, it is easier to pull the rubber onto the glass then push the window into place with the clamp. This method helped me to prevent the seal from getting pinched.
Thanks again for the help. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 456 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 456 | Glad it worked out for you. I hope to get mine done soon.
George | | |
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