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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3
J
New Guy
New Guy
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3
I'm restoring the liftgate & tailgate on my burb. I bought a new rear window weatherstrip but when I started to install it today its too big by about a foot. The old weatherstrip had seemed to have been cut to fit since it wasn't a continuous circle. The "seam" was at the bottom of the window.

So do I have the wrong weatherstip or do you have to cut it to fit? This is the weatherstrip with the separate bead to lock the rubber in place. If I cut it to fit does the seam go at the bottom or the top of the window?

Thanks !

Herb
63 Suburban
55 Handyman

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 564
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 564
I haven't done this, but will be in the near future (when I get my rear gate parts! Got barn doors now)

The seam will go at the bottom. (gravity will pull water through if you put the seam at the top)

You know, thinking about it, I wonder if you could cut it to fit, and then glue the ends together with the glue from a bike inner tube repair kit. It might help to keep the seam from opening up as the weather stripping shrinks over the years. Plus it'd seal it so water won't creep in.

Again, I haven't done it, but when I do, I think this is the way I'll go.
-Brad


SOUTHERN FALL GABfest
October 6 ~ Commerce, Georgia
Details here!


Never Pee on an Electric Fence.
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 15
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
S Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 15
Does anyone have info on novelty carrage works in spokane Wa
I have a 50 burb 3100 schoolbus from Mcall Id Just found this site. you guys are great

snuffy smith

50 burb
50 pu

Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 102
E
'Bolter
'Bolter
E Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 102
Hey Herb...I just ordered weatherstriping for my 63 lift gate. Let me know how yours worked out. Also there are no bumpers or stops or whatever they are called that help hold the clamshell doors tight when closed. They seem to have gone missing in the body and paint process done by the previous owner. Any chance of a pic of the rear with the gate open?

EB.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
6 Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
EB, if you can see the tiny little black chingadera in this pic , on the side right near the bottom under the panel hinge plugs. This is all my burb has, it is just a little "L" shaped rubber covered bit of metal. here is the top, same little L-shaped rubber. Brian


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 102
E
'Bolter
'Bolter
E Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 102
Thanks for the pics Brian. OK...I can see that I will have to make some adjustments to latch and lock mechanism after the new weather striping and the rubber stops on the L shaped doorstop thingezs are intalled. I want to get the clam shell to close and lock tight. Right now the door shuts and locks OK but is loose and sloppy and makes a metal to metal noise while driving. I had the whole thing apart when I took the lock to the locksmith to have it set to the ignition key and noticed the adjustments behind the service plate. What do you all think?
Thanks again...EB.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
6 Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
Mine is also loose, & I believe the hinge pins are worn as it seems I can move it up/down. I am in the process of getting it off, need an extra pair of hand to show up. I got one side support @salvage to replace one that was very worn & loose. Of course at the rate I am going it will be years before I can drive it to see if works. Brian


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6

Moderated by  MNSmith, Rusty Rod 

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