The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs 1950 panel how to install newer frame/wheels

I, saw a 47 panel that has 73-87 c-20 truck frame with 8 lugs. how do I switch my old frame for a new frame ? I have 1 -ton panel. I want to drive like a new car, but keep my body vintage. thanks. HOJO

That's a big project!

Is this an Advance Design or an Art Deco truck?

The track width of the '73-'87 is a bit wider than your '47 regardless of which body it is.

If its an Advance Design the wheel base is 137 inches. The C20 pickup is closer to 125 inches, about a foot shorter. You'll need to lengthen the frame about one foot.

And of course you will need to build body mounts and connect all the controls.

Its a lot of work. I'd suggest starting by looking at how that body will actually fit over the wheels and tires before choosing a frame donor.

One more thought. A '73-'87 C20 is a 3/4-ton truck. It won't ride like a new car no matter what you do to it.

Good advice above. I bought my 46 long wheel base panel on eBay. It was a hollow roller that had a frame from a 78 3/4 ton pickup roughly installed under it. I was looking at ways to add sectioned sheet metal so that the fenders would cover the tires, but I do poor body work. Then I stumbled across Joe's pages and the pics of Large Marge and her S10 frame. The S10 is attractive due to the substantial number of factory and aftermarket parts available and the fact that it is much newer tech, giving you power brakes, power steering and AC if you want. I found an ebay S10 truck and have been working away at things for a few Saturdays now. My S10 reg-cab short bed frame required 16 to 17 inches added to it. Additionally, I'll be replacing the 2wd rear with a 4wd rear to get 4 more inches of width. It is really a close fit with the stock backspacing otherwise. Hopefully, with more and more people doing this swap, we will have a collection of experiences and pictures a year from now to folks off the fence the way Joe's pics did it for me. MIke V

Check out the large marge shortcut on toomany2count's reply. He has done a helluva good job with good photos too.This is what convinced me to go ahead and find sh*# 10 and get started.

The front subframe from a 73-87 1/2 ton bolts to the frame with 6 bolts on either side. The frame from the 73-87 is exactly 1.5 inches wider than your frame (I'm assuming advance design thru 54 early 55 - otherwise your on your own) and has the same taper. Fabricate and slip 6 1/4 inch plates on - 3 on either side with the 4 mounting holes. The oyher two bolts go in from below. The mounting plates are about 4 x 8 inches. You can then fab a steering box adapter from 3/8 steel and bolt the box from the 73-87 along with the tie rod and other hardware. Get some ujoints from borgenson or from a caddy eldorodo and hook up a new column while your at it. Due to the lack of rise in your frame where the subframe mounts, the ride hieght is a couple inched high. Solve that with lowerd coils and/or dropped spindels.

Good Luck - from 53Subeuban

That is - Good Luck from 53Suburban - and all the other typos

Oh - be sure and use GRADE 8 hardware

I'm not sure, but I suspect the 3/4 ton subframe from 73-87 is very similar. Weld new spring pads on the rear to get matching lugs.

Anybody out there see the May 2003 issue of Classic Trucks (vol 12 no 5). They have a 48 Chevy pickup done by Chevrolet. They used an S10 frame plus they did a little sectioning. It was done to show off the new 5 cylinder at the time. It's worth buying the back issue for. I'm not advertizing the mag, just the 48 Chevy P/U on the cover.

I did that subframe conversion back in 1977. My welding skills were'nt what they are now and the bolt in solution was too good to pass up at the time. The in the weeds stance wasn't the look of the day then either. My Suburban has been in my garage since 82. I took time off then to buy some property, build a house, and raise a family. I'll be back at the Burb (with my 20 years of collected parts and tools/skills) real soon!

Jim

Don't worry Joe, I didn't catch the "the tires outside the frame" Untill the 2nd time thru. My tires sit about flush with the fenders, but it could be brought in with some different backspacing. I have some stock rims from a 78 P/U on now. Plus I've given some thought to slicing the inch and 1/2 from the center of the crossmember. I'm not sure I could get it in the weeds, but lowered springs and dropped spindels would go a ways down from where it is now.

I transplanted a 1980 C20 IFS to my '47 1 Ton. It has power disk brakes and power steering. Drives like a car. Spacers, welding and offset wheels did the job. My site is under construction but I can send a link if interested. Wayne - 1 ton Panel - http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/roworth_wayne_1947.htm

I was going to tell you to go find Wayne's website, but I see he has linked it for you. He has the solution I'm shooting for, but I am going to try to go him one step better, and narrow the IFS to match the tread width on the '47, then modify the frame to mount it a couple inches lower for correct height. I'm not going for the "in the weeds" look, but more of a stock look. Wayne's panel is a huge inspiration to me.

Oops, my mistake, that's his Gallery, not his website. I downloaded and read all about his IFS swap before he took his website down for remodeling.

Brad,

That would be a nice solution. I suppose the frame mod would be similar to a c notch in the rear to set it on the pavement - or in your case - put it back where it was. I was thinking of something similar the other day - I was watching some show on the tube doing the rear c-notch, but I will probably try a 2" dropped spindle and 1 - 2" lowered springs first for my 76 - 1/2 ton subframe on the 53Suburban. If I don't like it or run into an interference/alignment problem, I'm thinking I can resale to somebody with a 73-86 truck.

Jim