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#24433 01/10/2003 8:31 PM | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 | It's long, but bear with me..... Ok, for all of the sages, gurus, and cigar smokers on this site, I have a couple (well, ok a few) questions regarding your experiences. I have been researching this on this page and others for about a week or two and have accumulated a mess of info that I am trying to sort through, hence why I am asking for your experiences with these options. I am itching to get my '55 to a good safety and reliability level so that I can dispense with my rice burner that I use for long trips, etc. So, keeping the 235 and any other driveline modifications, I've got all mapped out. My questions have to do with the suspension and brakes. There are many options out there, and I am trying to find the best combinations to use. Here are the parameters: Year "round driving, mostly in town but interstate and mountain passes will be traveled (i.e. no long daily commute to work). Also, I will be traveling on maintained forest service roads (gotta go fishin'). These you can typically take a car down. Nothing that you need clearance and a 4x4 to get down, just bumpy with some washboard and rocks to avoid. The truck will still be used as a truck. Occasional light loads, possibly atv, lumber and tools, firewood, towing snowmobiles, etc. nothing constant or exceptionally heavy, just normal light truck work. Here are the questions: Brakes: I know that I am going to redo the brakes first. Disks up front, drums in the rear, new master, etc. There are several companies out there for these systems, or I could cobble together parts from different yards, donors and suppliers. Any recommendations for suppliers? I feel that it would be best to get an entire system from one company, that way (theoretically) it will work properly and easily. It is just hard on the wallet, so I am entertaining other options. (but brakes are VERY important, so I can justify the cost if that is the preferred option) Suspension: I would like to drop the truck just a touch - 3” or so on all 4 corners. I am leaning towards monoleafs all the way around. I have read on here that the ride is still ok with monoleafs and occasional hauling is ok. Now I have also read that you can put the front springs on the back (from a donor), and then take a couple of leafs out of the front, and achieve a slight drop. What are everybody's experiences and recommendations? I have not been able to find anyone who has posted an update lately on how their monoleafs or other options are performing for them in the long term. Also, the dirt road driving and loads are another concern with these modifications. Has anyone done both the front spring to rear and taking out leafs or some other random combination of those with the monos? How does that handle? Is it advisable? Putting it all together: Is there anything else that I have overlooked or need to keep in mind for the integration of these upgrades? I will be adding power steering, so does that affect any of these choices? I don't have the luxury of blowing this thing apart and spending a few months doing all the work at once, so I will do the brakes first, and then later move through the rest (probably for the next few years). I just want to make sure that if I perform an upgrade now, that it won't interfere with the future upgrades and I waste time and money repeating/replacing work.
Thanks in advance for the input. Educated decisions are better than ignorant guesses. Maybe we could even archive this if we get some good info! Sorry for the lengthy post. Let me know if there is more information that needs to be provided, or if I am off my rocker... well, strike that last part, i think that has all ready been proven...
Build 'em to Drive 'em
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#24434 01/10/2003 9:19 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | May I suggest that you pay a visit to a good spring shop, and let them build you what you want instead of trying to guess. I really like Benz Spring ( www.benzspring.com) in Portland, OR, they build springs for everything from Gunderson railcars to Freightliner semis to car and truck springs, have been in biz. since the 1920's and have a great shop. They can build you custom new springs for less than you can mail order monoleafs. Look for a shop like that and they will take the stock spring specs, the weight of your truck, and your desired ride height and load capacity into consideration and make you some nice new springs. That is what I am going to do.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#24435 01/10/2003 10:53 PM | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 | Josiah- Thanks! that was a resource that i haven't even thought about. i've used one before to get some overloads built for a company truck, so i will have to swing buy and get some prices....
Build 'em to Drive 'em
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#24436 01/11/2003 12:54 AM | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 | One other thing to consider, Bishop. You mentioned that you wish to add power steering. I would recommend doing that at the same time as your lowering job, as you will need a different (lowered) pitman arm if truck is dropped as compared to a stock height truck. This assumes, of course, that you are using the commonly available kit to install later model GM fullsize truck P/S. I wouldn't use the add-on ram assist type-I've heard horror stories of those units distorting and tearing framerails. Sounds like a worthwile program of upgrades. Best of luck. Regards, Wannabe 
"Don't expect anything and you'll never be disappointed"
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#24437 01/11/2003 2:16 AM | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 | Bishop ,when lowering the front keep in mind there is limited clearance between the rubber snubber and the frame.A 3 inch drop with a multi leaf set up will leave the front end with little usable front spring travel.The mono leaf has reversed eyes and reduces the spring thickness by about 2 inches.This will give you a 2-3 inch drop with acceptable spring compression travel. A nice touch for better handling is a front sway bar. | | |
#24438 01/11/2003 9:52 AM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | I have the mono leafs on the front and really like the ride. The truck is a good height and there is still a good amount of travel. The only other modification necessary is some shorter shocks. The pitman arm is still fine with this amount of drop. To achieve a similar drop in the rear I am just going to use some lowering blocks. It will retain the load carrying capacity of the rear of the truck by keeping the original springs. Right now my truck has too much rake. [img] http://www.angelswest.com/_borders/treetruck500.jpg[/img]
54 3100 with 235 62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
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#24439 01/13/2003 5:28 PM | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 | thanks for all the great info guys. me thinks i will check at a spring shop for ride/travel characteristics, and then compare that with monos/lowering blocks. what is the ride like with lowering blocks? any difference? stiff suspension on an uphill washboard road is not fun.
now, any suggestions on the disk brakes? full setup from chevy duty is $800+ is it adviseable to just get the set up, or should i get donor rotors, master cyln., etc. from the 'yards and then make it all work? I read an article in one of the truck mags lately (2-4 months ago) about how difficult it is to get proper pedal feel/stopping power without a correctly matched set up. was this a 'supplier' financed article, or is true? thanks for the advice guys....
Build 'em to Drive 'em
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#24440 01/14/2003 4:40 PM | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 | Bishop, I'd go with just purchasing the "basic" kits for your brakes, etc. These will give you all the fabricated brackets, spacers and bits and then you can just buy the wearable parts (like rotors, calipers, M/C) locally. You'll save some money both on initial purchase price and on shipping. Probably you have a mechanic friend? If so, get him to buy your rotors, etc through his regular parts supplier/store-you'll save a bundle with trade discounts. Regards, Wannabe 
"Don't expect anything and you'll never be disappointed"
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#24441 01/14/2003 4:42 PM | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 | Oh yeah, TonyM-your truck's lookin' good, sir. Are the mono's a recent addition? The truck looks lower than in the first picture I saw of it when I first started here. Regards, Wannabe 
"Don't expect anything and you'll never be disappointed"
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#24442 01/14/2003 5:15 PM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | Yes I put the mono leafs on the front a few months after I got the truck. The front springs were sagged unevenly and a local guy had these monoleafs for sale (forum swapmeet). His suburban wasn't low enough and he went to a dropped axle. The mono leafs are a vast improvement on ride.
I never planned on lowering it but do like the look and will see what lowering the rear about 3 inches will look like.
Ditto on changing front shocks, you need shorter and better shocks for the new handling.
54 3100 with 235 62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
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