|
BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| |
0 members (),
470
guests, and
1
robot. | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 40 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: May 2004 Posts: 40 | ok guys -brake question....i need to know what lenght brake line for the brake line that runs thur the raditor support and to both front brake cyd's.......i replaced the master cyd, all wheel cyd's and last Oct. this line started leaking fluid unde the raditor......it's spring and i want to ride in "My Panel".....can i just buy a straight brake line locally and bend to suit my needs....i thought some of you have fixed this one before and give me some idea's ansd length of line needed------THANKS FOR ALL REPLIES
1950 Chevy Panel 310
| | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | Your best bet is to pull the old one out, measure it, and use it as a template to bend the new one. I'm sure the parts vendors carry that line, if you don't want to worry about bending and flaring your own. | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I don't think there is a brake line running under the raditor on a stock 1950 Chev or GMC.
I'm absolutely certain there is not on a '54 or '55 1st.
On the stock truck there are two lines coming off the master cylinder. One of them goes only to the left front. The other crosses under the bellhousing to a tee fitting. One line goes forward from the tee for the right front, the other goes to the rear where it terminates in a flexible line that goes to the rear axle.
Are you sure you have a brake line running under the radiator?
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 40 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: May 2004 Posts: 40 | i will double check on the brake line under the raditor......it is enclosed under there somewhere. i was going out for a ride last fall and i hit the brakes and it went to the floor, i got out parked it, and fluid was coming out under the raditor......so it still sits......i still start it weekly and drive around the yard( 5 acres) in double low.....with no brakes....i will check today!!!!!it;s going to be spring soon and i wanting to ride around in my Panel..all original except for chrome baby moon wheels and white letter tires.
1950 Chevy Panel 310
| | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 40 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: May 2004 Posts: 40 | Finally getting around to the brake repair......i removed the rubber brake lines from both front wheel cyl's, now i need to know what length brake line do i need to buy to bend....and to get these brakes working again..i guessing it only runs from one front wheel cyl to the other front wheel cyl??????( i have a back injury from a fall @work last dec...making it real hard to see what's what under there)...thanks for all replies!!!!!!
1950 Chevy Panel 310
| | | | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 379 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 379 | Your FLAPS may have 25 foot coils of steel brake line, if not they can get it for you or Jegs, etc.. I think it's 1/4 inch for your truck. Then remove the original, drain old fluid out for proper disposal. SAVE ALL ORIGINAL FITTINGS! I like to make a bending table with a thick piece of plywood and a couple sawhorses. Carefully copy the original, leaving a few inches extra at each end. Then cut end square, ream inside tube, file burr on end a little, and use a 45 degree double flaring tool to make a practice flare on the excess end, putting the old nut on first. This excess for the learning curve as this really takes a little practice to get down. Dunking the end in fluid seems to help the forming a little. Check the end to make sure you are getting nice round double flares that do not mushroom off center. Also mind how much extra tube is needed for the flaring before making the "money cut." Repeat for other end and you are on the way.... | | | | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 379 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 379 | Forgot to mention, a good tube bender really helps bend that steel tube. Imperial or rigid are great, cheaper ones may also work, maybe not so great... | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Originally posted by flintriver: i guessing it only runs from one front wheel cyl to the other front wheel cyl?????? One line runs from the driver's side wheel cylinder to the master cylinder. The passenger side runs from the wheel cylinder to a tee that is located on the passenger side just behind the bellhousing crossmember. From that tee, one line runs to the rear axle and another runs to the master cylinder. You can buy pre-bent sets that might be easier for a guy with a bad back to install...
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | |
| |
|