The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk chassis mods

Ok here go's another question in reguards to the chassis . of my 1937 T-14-B is there a truck front axle and rear axle assemble's newer than mine out there that may work bolt up (most likely with some modifing)under my frame ?

The way you've posed the question the answer is easy, yes there is. It's that 'some modifying' part that makes the answer easy.

I don't know much about trucks that early, and really have no idea what a T-14-B is. Is this a 1/2-ton truck or something bigger?

The next bit of information that would help is some idea why you want to put newer axles under this truck and what you want to achive.

A general answer would be that stuff from a Chevy or GMC from the next couple of decades might be the easiest to adapt. I have both 1/2-ton and 1-ton stuff available I could measure if that would help. My stuff is pretty much all Advance Design era, but its the stuff I'd bet easiest to adapt to your frame.

Hey OldSub I have Constituted both. leaning more toward the newer open drive line with the orginal motor rebuild and a nwer t-5 trans installed. i think the newer open drive would be more user friendly to running on todays roads? I,m still working on getting a parts manual for this truck as far as specs go for my 1937 let me know what you think may work best and thanks Earl

ok a t14b is a 1937 1/2 ton pickup with a 126 wheelbase i have measured the back axle overall from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface and it is 60-7/16 overall length any idea what other year rear axles may fit?i would like to go with an open drive line on this truck and i am still looking into what i want to do with the front axle leave it rebiuld it or replace it ?Thanks Earl

At about 60 inches lots of rear axles are about that width. My AD has a 62 inch wide rear under it currently that came from under a Chevelle wagon. If you measure a late 50's early 60's pickup you may find they are close enough. Wheel size and offset, tire size, and ride height all play into knowing exactly what size is going to work.

Your motor might be a limiting factor running on today's roads. With a rear axle change and T-5 I think you can get it to run highway speeds, but that motor isn't one I'd be comfortable spinning fast for extended periods.

As for the front, its possible you don't need to do anything. Are the kingpins and bearings good? If so you may be able to get away with jut running it. How are the brakes?

1929-1940 1/2 ton front axles are pretty much the same. A big change came in 1941 with larger king pins. Another change came in 1953 with bendix brakes. A 1941- 1954 front axle should swap directly into your truck... in theory. Using the 41-54 front you could put 12 inch disc brakes, and run original 6 lug wheels.

As for the rear... figure out what tire size you want, and how much fender you have to hide the tires. On my 1940 with a 48 1/2 inch wide bed I selected a 61 inch wide axle. That should allow me to run 255/70R16 tires on 7 inch rims with 4 inches of backspacing. Your 1937 should have a 46 1/2 inch wide bed. I am not sure how much fender you got... I got around 11 to play with on my 1940.

I am using an IMCA modified f@rd 9 inch. You are able to get them in any length you want and have many more options for gears. I spec'd mine to have 12 inch disc brakes with a 6 on 5 1/2 inch lug pattern, so I can run the factory wheels which I had widened.

Good Luck
John

GMC1937 -
Your truck is basically a 1937 Chevrolet 1/2 ton pickup with a GMC badge on it. I have a 1937 Chevrolet 1/2 ton pickup. Here's is what I have done. I have a 55 Chevrolet car rear end under the truck. It is 60 1/4" wide and fits perfect. It is a Power Glide rear end with a 3:54 to 1 ratio. Your emergency brake cables will hook right up to the 55 car rear end with a little garage engineering and patience. A 53-55 Chevrolet or GMC truck front axle will bolt right under the truck with no modifications. The advantage over your original axle is that is more heavy, has the larger king pins and is set up to accept 50-54 Chevrolet car backing plates and hubs. These backing plates and hubs along with the 55 Chevrolet car rear axle will put you on the street with five lug wheels all the way around, Bendix brakes and an open drive line. You probably already knew that. Couple that with a dual master cylinder and you be able to stop with the best of them. Remember, you gotta be able to stop before before you can think about going!
A T-5 is a very good choice. With an adapter, you can run a T-5 and your can cruise at 65-70 easily. I had mine up to 80 a few weeks ago. That was scary!!
All in all, it is possible to bring your truck from the late 30's to the mid 50's without very much effort and you will gain a bunch! There is some effort, especially setting up the open drive line rear end, but it is worth it. The rest of it is just a matter of doing it.
Joe

You may need spacers to use the original wheels with disk brakes. I haven't tried it, but I know other people have struggled using the original wheels after converting to disks.

I have heard about clearence issue. I just hope I don't have them with my 16 inch artillery wheels. I am into those things for a small fortune.

Dang, that was easy...

Man THATS ALOT of good info thanks guys really give me alot to think about . as for the ride hieght i want to keep it orginal and would like to use the orginal style wheel with newer tires maybe will have to look into what big did to his. and using a beefer front axle off a newer truck 41-54 i heard someone say.is really a great idea. the rear axle out of a 50 something truck/car also a cool idea so it sounds like i better figure out what wheels and tires i want and then build up from there .oldsub i have come to the conclusion that the best thing i can do in the motor department is update to a bigger 6 cyl inline 270 or 302.. somewhere i have seen a newer Manufactured bell housing that lets you use the orginal motor mounts with a 270 or 302 i believe and a t-5 trans not positive about that.ok one more question tube shocks or the orginal lever action which work better ? i would like to get opinions on this also Thanks everyone for all the great ideas ..Earl

Earl, can't answer your question about a tube shock conversion... I am still trying to figure that out myself. There was a single action and double action style Knee action shock. I imagine the double action would work pretty well. The only advantage I could see to swap them out is parts availability. I am not sold on better performance, but maybe somebody will chime in and educate us. I think that is a good question.

I run a 270 in my Suburban and have been pretty happy with it. I still plan to pull it out someday and put a V-8 in its place, but its good enough there is no hurry.

To run the T-5 you need a later bellhousing. I don't recall right now if they start in '48 or '49, but the right truck will be a Chevy or GMC with a synchromesh 4-speed or a column shift 3-speed. There are some clutch linkage issues and I'm not the one to try to explain those.

Also they changed how the bellhousing mounts to the crossmember in '54. I suspect you want a '49 to '53 bellhousing, but if you do some searching here you'll find more specifics and hopefully someone will address that detail also. I don't think those bellhousings are hard to find, so make sure you get the right one.

Actually, I think the brake and clutch pedal mount to your bellhousing on a 37. You could use a 37-46 chevy bellhousing, or 39-46 gmc bellhousing (I am not sure if the pontiac, or olds bellhousing will bolt up to a gmc motor, but it may) with an adapter plate with the t-5 if you end up changing engines. The adapter plate would be the way to go if you are using the 230 flathead as well. Most people have to extend the splines and shorten the t-5 pilot shaft. Those mods are unnecessary if you have a 1/2 inch adapter plate between the bellhousing and transmission.
You will have to experience some fabrication in order to make it all work.

Hey big and old thanks for all your help and now i have to go look i think you may be right about the clutch and brake levers mounting on the bell? later Earl