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#23685 03/05/2005 10:37 PM | Joined: May 2002 Posts: 36 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2002 Posts: 36 | I have a cam problem with my 235, I'm going to have to pull the cam. First Question can you pull the cam with out takeing out the grill. next question can you put hyd lifters in place of solids. If I can is the cam the same on both? Thanks for the help. :confused:
I've never been lost just confused for a month or two. 1950 & 1952 chev. 1998 Chev 4x4.
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#23686 03/05/2005 11:10 PM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | No, you cannot remove the cam w/o pulling both the radiator and likely the grill. The best choice is to pull the engine. What is the "problem" your having with the cam?
As for the lifters I think you can run solids or hydraulics on any flat tappet cam profile. Roller cams are made with steeper ramps and longer durations as a result which would cut into the sides of the lifter bottom. | | |
#23687 03/05/2005 11:17 PM | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 109 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 109 | I don't know about 235s, but if they're not made for hydraulic lifters, you cant use them....... no oil there to pump them up
John Kennedy
1950 Suburban street rod
Pics in the Gallery.......
new site up!
http://home.joimail.com/~kennedyjp/
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#23688 03/06/2005 2:56 AM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | What year is the 235? If there's a big oil gallery running between the lifters, hydraulics can be run, but the cam and lifters MUST match. Hydraulic cams have a different profile, and completely different acceleration ramps than solid-lifter cams. If you're buying a new cam it's absolutely imperative to run new lifters with it. NEVER put used lifters on a new cam, and ALWAYS run the correct lifter for the cam. Solids and hydraulics cannot be swapped!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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#23689 03/06/2005 2:53 PM | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 324 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 324 | I just finished changing the cam in my 54 mod. 235. Hot Rod is correct check and make sure there is an oil gallery at the lifters.(some blocks were designed for solid lifters and the oil gallery was not used)and use the proper (new)lifters for the cam used. It is nessary to remove the grill and radiator to get the cam out. You will also need to remove the oil pan to get to the bottom bolts on the timeing gear cover. This is not a hard job just time consuming.
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#23690 03/06/2005 4:40 PM | Joined: May 2002 Posts: 36 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2002 Posts: 36 | The year of the motor is 1954 I think it came out of a car because it had no front motor mount, I had to drill front holes. Last summer a lifter started to make noise so I adjusted the Top end everthing went good for about a week, the noise came back I took off the valve cover and ran the engine, two push rods are not spining like the rest and I had to adjust the valves two more times in three hundred miles. Thanks for the input.
I've never been lost just confused for a month or two. 1950 & 1952 chev. 1998 Chev 4x4.
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