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#23685 03/05/2005 10:37 PM
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 36
O
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O Offline
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 36
I have a cam problem with my 235, I'm going to have to pull the cam. First Question can you pull the cam with out takeing out the grill. next question can you put hyd lifters in place of solids. If I can is the cam the same on both? Thanks for the help. :confused:


I've never been lost just confused for a month or two. 1950 & 1952 chev. 1998 Chev 4x4.
#23686 03/05/2005 11:10 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,733
Shop Shark
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,733
No, you cannot remove the cam w/o pulling both the radiator and likely the grill. The best choice is to pull the engine. What is the "problem" your having with the cam?

As for the lifters I think you can run solids or hydraulics on any flat tappet cam profile. Roller cams are made with steeper ramps and longer durations as a result which would cut into the sides of the lifter bottom.


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#23687 03/05/2005 11:17 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 109
J
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I don't know about 235s, but if they're not made for hydraulic lifters, you cant use them....... no oil there to pump them up


John Kennedy
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#23688 03/06/2005 2:56 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,742
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Posts: 29,742
What year is the 235? If there's a big oil gallery running between the lifters, hydraulics can be run, but the cam and lifters MUST match. Hydraulic cams have a different profile, and completely different acceleration ramps than solid-lifter cams. If you're buying a new cam it's absolutely imperative to run new lifters with it. NEVER put used lifters on a new cam, and ALWAYS run the correct lifter for the cam. Solids and hydraulics cannot be swapped!
Jerry


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#23689 03/06/2005 2:53 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 324
2
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I just finished changing the cam in my 54 mod. 235. Hot Rod is correct check and make sure there is an oil gallery at the lifters.(some blocks were designed for solid lifters and the oil gallery was not used)and use the proper (new)lifters for the cam used. It is nessary to remove the grill and radiator to get the cam out. You will also need to remove the oil pan to get to the bottom bolts on the timeing gear cover. This is not a hard job just time consuming.
Good luck

#23690 03/06/2005 4:40 PM
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 36
O
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The year of the motor is 1954 I think it came out of a car because it had no front motor mount, I had to drill front holes. Last summer a lifter started to make noise so I adjusted the Top end everthing went good for about a week, the noise came back I took off the valve cover and ran the engine, two push rods are not spining like the rest and I had to adjust the valves two more times in three hundred miles. Thanks for the input.


I've never been lost just confused for a month or two. 1950 & 1952 chev. 1998 Chev 4x4.

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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