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#23596 06/19/2003 12:23 AM | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 | Hey everybody! That time of year has finally come when college is out, work has started, and money is coming in so I'm able to start working on my projects once again  I want to replace the rear main seal in my 1955 3200 (235ci) and I was hoping for advice/tips for doing it. The engine is still in the truck, fully attached to the drivetrain, and I would prefer to keep it like that if possible. Please, and suggestions you may have are welcome! Also, where can I find replacement gaskets (specifically the oil pan gasket) for my truck? I've found the rear main seal are the local car parts place (they can order it), but the gasket for the pan seems to be hard to find. Why is that?
Neil
1955 Chevy 3200
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#23597 06/19/2003 7:02 AM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 68 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 68 | I just replaced the rear main on my truck this week. The rear main and oil pan gasket, were both Fel-Pros. I have the part # at work. I'll post them tomorrow. There's nothing special about the pan gasket, so I don't know why your parts guy is having problems.
'54 3100-235-T5 trans-12 bolt 3:31
'68 Impala 307/350
'78 Sportster/Original owner
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#23598 06/19/2003 1:59 PM | Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 68 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 68 | Wing Nut,
Remove your oil pan, then the rear main bearing. This will expose the two parts of the seal. You should be able to push the old out pretty easy. You can use a small diameter wire to twist onto the end of the upper seal. Run the tag end of the wire through where the seal goes. Pull the seal through then replace the loser seal. then replace the bearing and oil pan. Use veseline to lube the upper seal to let it pass easier. Torque for the bearing bolts is 100 to 110. | | |
#23599 06/19/2003 7:56 PM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 68 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 68 | Milhouse, the part # for that rear main is Fel-Pro BS13363.
New Old 53, it wasn't me asking how, it was Milhouse.
'54 3100-235-T5 trans-12 bolt 3:31
'68 Impala 307/350
'78 Sportster/Original owner
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#23600 06/19/2003 8:10 PM | Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 68 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 68 | My bad,.... Sorry Wingnut.
I just got done pulling my gas tank.... guess the fumes are getinmsom; me mpafdp mmp;ljgi0. | | |
#23601 06/19/2003 11:32 PM | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 99 | Thanks for the info and advice! Wingnut, you wouldn't happen to have the # for the oil pan gasket, would you? Also, will I have to loosen any of the bolts holding in the crankshaft in order to have some play in it to get the seals in/out?
Neil
1955 Chevy 3200
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#23602 06/20/2003 6:32 PM | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 327 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 327 | Milhouse, try this Tech Tip. It is very easy. Use the old style wick, asbestos, type if possible. rearseal
Oly in Oregon Rest in Peace1945 GMC COE Victory Truck 1953 Willys CJ3B 1955 Chevy 1st series 3/4-ton 1958 WIFE Last series Never say "Whoa" in a mud hole
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#23603 06/21/2003 3:34 AM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 68 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 68 | Oil pan gasket: Fel 0S5153C
If my rear main leaks, I'll try Oly's suggestion with the old school wick seal.
'54 3100-235-T5 trans-12 bolt 3:31
'68 Impala 307/350
'78 Sportster/Original owner
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