Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
2 members (baldeagle, Oswald),
42
guests, and
10
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,012 Posts1,055,316 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | I have a bolt on the Tailgate hinge that sheared off. I have tried to drill out with a regular bit but I am getting no where. What's the best way to remove? :confused:
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 | Hi Blue 50,,,if youve tried an e-z out and its not working,,try drilling the broken bolt with the size just smaller than the diameter of the orig bolt. (i think theyre 5/16 or 3/8) Whichever the case may be,,,,drill the hole to where all you have left is only the old threads from the old bolt. Then run a tap thru there to clean out the hole,,and,,voila!! new hole ready to accept your new bolt. Hope this makes sense. good luck,Marty | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | The best idea I ever saw is right here under your nose. Check the Tech Tips/engine/broken bolt........By RACECARL.. right here in Stovebolt. Bartamos.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 641 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 641 | what you do is drill a small hole as close to center as you can then heat it with propane a few times then take a small chisel and start rolling the bolt into the hole you have drilled it will soon get loose enuff to back whats left of it out with out hurting anything | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | The easiest, most likely to succeed, and best chance of not ruining the threads is to weld a nut to the bolt and then unscrew it.
I find that drilling is going to lead to damaged threads most of the time, as it is hard to be centered and parallel to the centerline of the bolt. I only try drilling first if you don't mind installing a Heli-Coil if things go badly.
The best way to remove a broken bolt by welding is with a TIG welder. You can build up the bolt first if it is broken down in a hole. Then once it is flush you can either continue to build it up and use vice grips to remove it, or weld a nut to it from the inside of the nut and use a wrench.
A MIG welder can also be used, although it is much more difficult if it is below flush. If it is flush first place a washer over it that will just show the bolt but cuvers the threads so they are protected from welding, an under size washer for the bolt. Then weld the washer to the broken bolt. Then weld a nut to the washer and remove.
A stick welder can also be used with the same method as the MIG welder, but it is tricky to do on small bolts. I have seen special rods for welding broken bolts that are down in a hole, the flux protects the threads while you weld a tower on the stud to get it up out of the hole, much like if you were TIG welding. I can get info on these if anyone is interested, but I have not used them.
The reason welding works well is because the heat from the welding will expand the bolt and crush the rust around the threads, then the bolt cools and shrinks, leaving it a little looser in the hole than before. Welding will also un-Locktite a bolt.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | There is also a product made by a company called X-ERGON that is specifically designed for this purpose called X-TRACTALLOY. It has a flux that will not stick to threads. I have used it many time to pull broken head bolts and others from industrial equipment. It runs at about 70 amps for 3/32 diamater rods. Take a flat washer bigger than the bolt by about one size, place it over the broken bolt (I usually offset it a bit like an eccentric tack it to the top of the bolt, then weld the nut to the washer in a couple spots. Let it cool for just a couple seconds and carefully turn it out with and end wrench. If it doesen't come the first time dress it a bit, get another washer and bolt and try again. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | Follow-up: If the bolt is broken below the surface you weld a button on top of the bolt, as stated it will not stick to threads. If it is broken a 1/2" down you would build a series of small buttons until you get it flush with the surface. Then attach the washer. When it pulls the buttons, washer, and nut all come together. If you look at it you would think no way does it work but it does about 90% of the time. It does take some skill and practice though. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 322 | Thanks to all but:
I don't weld, so can't use any of those good ideas.
Marty- The bolt broke off inside the top threaded hole of the stake pocket. The drill bits I have are from the hardware store and don't seem to have much effect...what bit did you use? I have not tried an e-z out yet, maybe I'll give that a try.
Chuck
Blue 50
1950 3100 w/57 235 Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end | | |
| |