The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk a softer ride???

I have a 51 Chevy 3100 that is modified with a 350 and auto trans. A first for me, all of my others have been bone stock. It has roll pans front and rear and I need two things. Just a little lower than stock and a softer ride. Someone said removing one or two leaf springs on each corner would do both at once. Sounds like it might work but I don't know if I would sacrifice something else doing that. They also didn't know which leafs to remove, whether from the the bottom or middle. It has 7 leafs in the rear and 8 in the front. Anybody got any suggestions or experience with this??? thanks!! mitchell

I took out the 2 bottom leaves and the front bumper dropped 1 1/2" and improved the ride. If you take more you have to disassemble the spring pack and at some point safety is compromised. The springs are held together with a bolt that will become visible after you remove the axle bumper. Good luck.

Curt B.

Curt, How did it affect the handling? Does it lean excessively in turns or do anything strange. Did you remove the very bottom, very short leafs? I wonder if I could expect the same amount or less drop in the rear by removing the bottom two since it doesn't have the weight of the engine. thanks mh

Can't tell you anything about the rear but I think I get a little less roll in corners than before due to a lower center of gravity. I removed just the bottom short 2. The steering wheel was out 90 degrees after removing the leafs but that was easy to fix just by removing and re-positioniong it.

I removed three from the bottom of mine on the front and three from the rear. I installed aluminum blocks in place of the leafs to keep the ride higth the same. It helped some, but not much.
What did help mine was adding Poly-Slide to the leafs. Its a plastic liner that goes between each leaf to let them slide and move around. I got it from Speedway Motors. You will need to smooth up each leaf with a grinder or sander so they don't cut into it. I would change the u-bolts while you have it apart, they are cheap and its good insurance. Check with your local spring shop for u-bolts and center bolts. Joe

I removed three from the front and two from the rear, it dropped about an 1.5" all around. I added sway bars and that helped a lot with body roll. I haven't tried the Poly-Slide, I may though after reading Joe's comments.

I took my springs to the local spring shop and asked them what they thought . He recommended removing 2 leafs out of seven which I did. Don't have them reinstalled so don't know how much the height/ride changed. I coated leaves with anti seize as I couldn't find the poly liner. I would suggest if you have a local spring shop to check them for options. It may saved you some headaches.
Dan

I am not aware of a local spring shop around here but I guess I will try removing the two bottom leafs since it isn't a major operation. I am not familiar with the Poly-Slide product but I wonder about the durability of it. Is it a permanent product or short lived. It seems its life could get squeezed out quickly between spring leafs. mitchell

Rather than using a commercial poly liner you can try and find a kid's old plastic "Magic Carpet". For those in the sun belt these are roll up plastic snow sleds. Found mine at a garage sale for 50 cents and cut it up with scissors.

Mine poly slide has been in for three years and still looks like new. Spring shops can punch holes in each end and add poly buttons which do the same thing, all new springs use them and have for years. The stuff I used looks like the old Hot Wheels orange race track only its black and a little wider. The lips on both sides hold it in place.

I tried the grease and it didn't work. After a few months it was back to the same old ride. When I took them apart, they were rusted at each place the touched each other and the rest was still covered in grease.

Joe

Joe did you have the spring shop assemble them, how about sizing? What was the cost of the poly-slide, do they sell it in bulk or by the length?

Here is the link to Speedway Motors,

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2079,,_Spring-Liners.html?itemNo=spring%20liner

and Yogis Inc. ,

http://www.yogisinc.com/Detail.cfm/-/Product_CD=2642/product.htm (they offer more sizes)

I did all the work myself. You will need new center bolts, NAPA, trailer supply, spring shop,
aftermarket truck supply house, or general hardware store. You will need a grinder or heavy duty sander to remove rust and sharp edges. And you will need to be able to bend the spring clamps so you can get each leaf out. You will want to paint them when apart, so get some black paint.

I rounded each end of the springs so there was no sharp edge to dig in to the poly liner. It won't take much or to long to do, then give them a quick sanding or grinding. They are so hard, you won't remove much if any material. The poly comes in 20 ft rolls, cut full length strips making sure you cover the ends of each leaf. I used three rolls for the whole truck. You may want to do a quick measure to see approx how much you will need. Yogis was a little better looking, but Speedway has great shipping to my house so I bought from both. I put the lips facing down over the spring so they wouldn't catch water and dirt.

Use C-clamps to pull the springs tight, the center bolt is just to hold them once tight. They are made from soft material and will strip easy when tightening. I used a allen head bolt in the front springs of mine since they were so short. Just make sure the head of the bolt will fit in the location hole of the axle. Once the bolt is tight, cut off the extra and use a hammer to flatten the remaning threads enough so the nut can't work loose.

I use a torch to cut the old center bolt, but a hack saw or wrenches will do the same. Have a C-clamp on so they don't go flying. They won't go far, just don't have your hand right in front. They are not like a loaded coil spring, but still require respect!

This would be a good time to check the shackles and pin bushings, clean out the grease fittings, and get new gasket/seals for the shakle pins. I would also consider new u-bolts. If yours come loose easy, clean them up and reuse. If you fight them, for sure replace them.

Joe

I'm about to bring my truck into the spring shop for new shackles and while there I want to have them remove a couple of leafs....

So if I read the comments correctly, removing the two shortest leafs is best??

Thanks!

i got a lowering kit from obsolite trucks it has defferent shakels and a single spring and a caddy rear with disks it rides real low havent got to drive it yet

Yes Larry, the two shortest. The spring shop will know what to do. Ask about teflon/nylon buttons on the end of each leaf. It might not be to exspesive. Joe

Do you use the poly liner the full length of each individual leaf? If so then you have to drill the center of each poly spacer/liner for the center bolt?

I went the orther route with my 55.I put in an M2 frontend with power rack and pinion steering.Man what a difference,it sits down there where it looks mean and sassy,and rides and handles like a dsream.At firest in the rear I took out 4 leaves on each side and got it lowered like I wanted it,this also produced a better ride.Later I bought a complete new 5 leaf setup from TCI and installed it.This meant flipping the rear,and installing new spring mounts,shackles,and springs.Also new shock mounts,shocks and a sway bar.It definitly rides and handles 100%better than the old stock setup.If you want to keep it all stock this aint the way to go,but in the long run you will have a truck that is a joy to drive.Just my opinion on the subject,of course I am an old hotrodder at heart.

Just a thought...50+ year old springs might (probably) have lost their temper. They can't perform like they used to. You can have them re-tempered - at a cost.
Or, to acheive that softer ride, lower stanch and new metal functionality you can purchase a new set.
I got a full leaf reduced set from Patrick's in Arid-zona. About a grand to your door.