The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk removeing front pully

could someone tell me how to remove the front pully from the crank? i've got a leak comeing from the front of the motor and i need to fix it befor i put the fenders back on,, it's a 216 motor in a 51, 3100,,, ron

You need to purchase or rent a puller pushrod. Your FLAPS should have one.

Ron,

Unless some crafty mechanic has changed the way the bottom two timing cover bolts fasten, be aware you will need to pull the pan to remove the cover.

Stuart

And if you're as lucky as I was you'll have to remove the flywheel cover & tranny crossmember to remove the oil pan.

thanks for the help guy's,, the old truck is getting closer, i painted the inside of the cab today, all i have left is to prime and paint the cab, and put it all back together, the fenders hood and bed have been painted for about a month, it's windser blue, when it's done i will try to post a pic,,, ron

Maybe a few more details would be helpful here. To remove the pulley, you need a gear puller that uses two bolts that thread into the hub. If you try and use a puller with claws around the pulley, it will destroy the unit. If the leak is caused by the front seal, you don't have to remove the cover to replace the seal.

I will disagree with truckernix. The only proper way to do this task is to remove the timing cover. The seal installation requires that it be driven in. Doing this 'in situ' is asking for trouble.

When you remove the timing cover to install a new seal, you will flatten the flange and install a new timing cover gasket too. Unless you have other issues, this will solve your leak.

I have braced myself for the onslaught of folks who have done this in place and have nary a problem.

Stuart

Here's how to perform The Old Timing Cover Trick.

Ever try a quickie sleeve? Some times there is a grove worn in the balancer that a new seal won"t fix but a quickie sleeve will with out replacing the seal.

I have not personally replaced the seal with this method. I have always taken the front cover off. Having said that, there have been postings on this board detailing how they replaced the seal with the cover in place. I don't see any problems with this, except for the challenge of getting the old one out. I don't think the challenge is prohibitive and the procedure would save many hours of labour. Installing the new one is easily done using a sleeve to tap it in place.

When you get the balancer off take a good look at where the seal rides on it. If the balancer is grooved then a sleeve as ttodd suggested may fix it without replacing the seal. Here it is in Jim Carters catalog for $6.25. Good luck.

http://www.oldchevytrucks.biz/catalog1/00114.htm

Curt B.

Pushrod,
A tip for putting the pulley back on. Heat it up a little in a low temp oven. Not too hot as the balancer has rubber in it. 200 degrees for 20 minutes was all it took to do mine. Then it will slip right on instead to beat it on with a big mallet.
Rich

I was glad to find out the "Steering Wheel Puller" set I bought 5 years ago, so I could fix the horn in my '44 1.5 ton, included a set of bolts that fit the pulley. It was a generic kit, bought I think from the FLAPS. Worked like a charm for the pulley a few weeks ago.

-Michael