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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,049 Posts1,055,741 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 | Everything was going well on the front leaf spring replacements until I noticed that one of the rear spring hangers is loose where it attaches to the frame. All 4 rivets are sloppy. What does anyone recommend? I don't think it would be too difficult to cut the old rivets out but does it have to be re-riveted or can it be bolted back on? Obviously bolting would be a lot easier but I will be guided by experienced mechanics on this issue. Also, is there any trick to driving out the old bushings at the shackle end which are pressed into the frame? I haven't even tried to get them out as yet but it looks like it could be a challenge since they are attached to the truck and not easily accessible. Thankyou in advance for your suggestions!
littlebuddie
1948 AD Pickup
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 | LB, I had a broken spring mount that I changed on my 4t6. I used grade 8 bolts to remount. Spring pins can be a bear. I used a drive pin on a couple and had to heat with torch on the others. Pics below. Good luck and have fun. Dan http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1512695738071274430mzbJPM | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Takeing out the rivets & using bolts is the standard procedure. You can probably drill them out. Like 4t6 says get grade 8 bolts. They will have 6 lines on the head. Put lock washers behind the nuts. Sometimes it the bolts fit loose you need to drill out to the next larger size. You should be able to drive the bushings out. On the one with threads in it you can use an old pin if its not worn too much. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 580 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 580 | For the bushing work I used Harbor Freight's "3-in-1 Service Kit" (#38335-0VGA), Littlebuddie. Here's the lowdown (starts about 2/3 of the way down the page). Framework - Halfway Home If you don't want to go to the expense of the service kit tool, you might have luck with Boyo's DIY Bushing Puller right here on the stovebolt site. Boyo\'s DIY Bushing Puller | | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 | I went to Portland and picked up my new springs today and they are beautiful. I also bought all new installation parts as well. Thanks Chev4t6 for your help, I really appreciate the photos of your project too. The fellow at the spring shop suggested the same as you and Wrenchbender about rebolting the spring mount with grade 8 bolts. I'll try using an old threaded pin to drive out the bushings and then try the other methods if I need to. I got those little recess holes cleaned out pretty good Wrenchbender and I appreciate your suggestion on those. Thanks Laroke for the link to the '3-in 1 Service Kit', it looks like a very useful tool, and for the information on Boyo's Bushing Puller (I didn't see that on the tech page). Ok, I hope to have this done this weekend!
Many Thanks, littlebuddie
1948 AD Pickup
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | For the bushings I have found the easiest thing to remove them with is a "ball joint press" It looks like a big C clamp and works great. Save yourself the frustration of trying it any other way and spend the money on a cheap one, it'll work fine.
I removed two of mine with a long bolt and some pieces I turned on the lathe. Then I found out about the ball joint press and removed another set in about 3 minutes. The first set took a few hours...
About bolts or rivets, I don't disagree with that the others have said, but personally I would re-rivet the spring hanger. The frame for my 48 had bolts holding a front spring hanger on and I replaced them with 3/8" hot rivets like original. I think you will be fine with bolts if you chose, but I wanted originality. I also think that the rivets do a better job. They are a little difficult to do right and take some special tools. If you decide to rivet you will either know how to do it or you should get help from someone who has done it before. I suppose we could tell you how to do it, but it's about 75% experience (trial and error).
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 | Thankyou for your input Grigg. I know in my heart that you have a good point about staying original, but I tremble in fear at the thought of replacing those big rivets. I would like to keep it original but since It won't hurt anything to put bolts in there in the meantime, I'll let someone else do a proper rivet job after I am long dead and gone........or it loosens again..........or I take the cab off...........which ever comes first. I'll look into your suggestion of the ball joint press before I ruin things by any other means. Thanks, littlebuddie
1948 AD Pickup
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 | I used a 4" electric angle grinder to grind down the rivet heads on the rear spring perches, then I knocked out the rivets with the gentle tap of a hammer. It was very easy to get the rivets out that way. I think I paid less than $20 for the grinder at Harbor Freight and it has been one of the tools I've used the most working on this truck.
I took the spring perches to a suspension shop where they pressed out the bushings and put the new ones in. Then I bolted them back to the frame with grade 8 bolts, lock washers and nuts.
Since the bushings were shot I had to replace the spring bolts that mount the leaf springs to the perches through the bushings. The suspension shop that rearched my springs had all the parts I needed, including the bushings and bolts.
Best of luck!
'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 | Doesn't surprise me that Grigg is prepared to use original style rivets. That guy is amazing. Look at his pictures and you'll see what I mean.
I used an air hammer to get the bushings out. They came out lickety split. However, putting the new ones back in, definately the 3 in 1 tool from HF. That is one helpful tool worth having in your arsenal.
Lilbuddie, Did you go see the operation at Benz Spring? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | littlebuddie, what I found with my truck was that the bushings at the top of the shackle, in the frame were in excellent condition. My other bushings were totally shot. So I didn't replace those upper bushings. In the rear on my 1 Ton, the upper bushings again were pretty decent. However on the 1 Ton, they are mounted in the shackle assembly so I had them repaced by the spring shop. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 272 | It's done! Looks good but I haven't taken it for a spin yet. The first place I am driving to is an alignment shop. I simply am not savvy enough in that regard to do the alignment. Thanks NM51 for your input. I used a combination of an angle grinder, a sawzall and a hacksaw to get those rivets out. orchidskip, I saw the Benz Spring shop and what an incredible operation they have! Huge place dedicated to making automotive springs. Nice people there too. I saved over 175.00 by purchasing all that I needed straight through the manufacturer. I owe you big-time for that resource! Hey truckernix, my old shackle bushings were in good shape too but I went through all the misery of replacing them anyway because they came with the kit. After all these aches and pains go away, maybe I'll be happy about that decision. Grade 8 bolts are in place on the rear mount and holding fine. Let's see what the alignment expert thinks of the whole thing. Thanks everyone for being there with me, I couldn't have done it without you!! 
1948 AD Pickup
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 | Well done!!!! Some day when I travel up that way I will make a special trip to see Benz Spring. The referral came to me from someone on this site so I'm not sure how much credit I deserve but you are welcome just the same. My springs had 7 leaves in the front and 14 in the rear!!! Talk about a workout!!! I feel like the truck ran me over a couple times. Enjoy. | | |
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