The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk add on oil filter

My supply line to the filter was dripping a little. I tightened it and it became more than a drip. I bought four new ferrels and installed a new one on each end of the supply line. The ferrels seemd to be the correct size but the line has blown off twice at the engine end, and believe me it makes a mess in a hurry. Does anybody know of a crossover fitting that would convert the ferrel to a hydraulic fitting? I believe it would be an improvement in reliability. Is the small copper tubing still available that could be subbed for the plastic that came with the ad on gage kit? Plastic scares me for these applications.
meansam

Yes, 1/8" copper tubing can be used...kits available at most parts houses. I've used the plastic lines without any problems and am currently running the copper line in my 235. Can't envision a 235 developing enough pressure to "blow off" a tight 1/8" line.

The same CONE SHAPED ferrel, is used on both the plastic and copper lines. It is slid on the line...the line is pushed down into the female fitting approximately 5/16" and the nut is tightened, snug. Once you snug down the nut....the CONE SHAPED ferrel locks and can not be removed from the plastic or copper line.

Be sure to push the line down into the fitting so the CONE SHAPED FERREL can get a good grip. Oil spray down around the exhaust pipe is an invitation for disaster. Hope this helps.

Dave

It wasn't the 1/8 inch line that blew out of the ferrel,it was the 3/8 od plastic from engine to oil filter. I was afraid I would over tighten it the first two times, and as a consequence I did not have it tight enough to adequately compress the ferrel. The last time I torqued it pretty good,then disconnected the line and checked the ferrel. Looks to be locked on the line well now. I miked the od of the oil filter plastic line, and it is the same od as 1/4 water copper line as well as 3/8 inch refrigeration copper line( water copper is speced according to id and reg copper is speced according to od but both have the same od).Either type of copper should work but refrig copper has the greater wall thickness and will carry several times the psi of the engine. If I have any more trouble with it the plastic I will replace it with copper. I was surprised to notice the return line was steel flare , same as fuel line and brake line was.
meansam

I'd get a 1/8'npt to 1/4" Inverted double flare. That's what the OE fitting should be. I used steel double flare brake line for mine, have absolutly no leaks at the fittings.

You can also purchase a set of oil filter lines from one of the venders we talk about throughout this forumn. These lines are made to do what you want them to do (carry the oil flow to and from the engine to your beehive filter) and will look quite sporty, too. They are not expensive and come with all the fittings you are talking about.

Just a suggestion.

Oppps....missed that one by a mile!!! SBT....OldBlue has it right....I used 1/8 barbed fittings and rubber oil line on mine. Never had any problems. Just got to keep the lines small or you'll loose additional pressure. Speaking of which....I plugged the holes with 1/8NPT plugs when I put on my multicarb setup.....oil pressure at idle immediately came up to 15 and ran 35 at 2000 rpms. Makes me question the need for the filter. Change oil anyways at 2K. Think I'd rather have the oil pressure to the bearings.
Just my $.02.

Dave

try a tractor repair shop or ashop that makes hoses
under $25