The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Wheel Bearing Installation

Howdy,
I'm putting new wheel bearings and races (cups?) on my C-10, and don't have access to the proper installation tool. I had a guy tell me one time to put the hub in the sun, and the race in the freezer to get it good and cold. Then, after protecting the race with a piece of wood, give it a few well placed taps with a hammer and "she'll slip right in." He also said that I should be sure to wear eye protection since the frozen race tends to be brittle.

Now, I have no reason to doubt this guys methods, but I was wondering if any of you out there have ever heard of this, or maybe even done it that way. Or, maybe you have a better idea. I would appreciate your input.

I'll probably end up taking the darn things down to a mechanic and have him install the races for me. But that wouldn't be much fun though.

Thanks!
Lew

Lew - that is a method that can be useful, but if the bore is cleaned of any dings or burrs from previous work, it shouldn't be a big ordeal to tap those suckers in using a socket or a clean piece of thick wall pipe the right size. has worked on all the ones I've done w/o freezing. and I wouldn't think the freezer trick would make steel of that quality brittle enuff to break, specially if ya 'tap' rather than hammer.

Bill

I have good luck using the old race to beat the new ones in with. Also a large washer or piece of flat steel across the top of the old race. Then hit it right in the middle and they will go right in. The large socket trick works just as well if you have any the right size. They are pretty tough and can take a pretty good hit. Joe

The freezer trick does help with the larger front wheel drive bearings and warming the stearing knuckle a little, It does not make the bearings any more fragile or we would break a lot more bearings in the winter. Using a block of hard wood to tap the inner races in is about the safest making sure the hub is clean so the bearing will seat properly, then install the hub and torque the nut to about 30 ftlbs to make sure the races have seated properly, then backen off and re tighten to spec. It also does not hurt to check the bearing adjustment after a couple of hundred miles.

I've always used a pin punch tapping only a small amount each time on opposite sides to keep it reasonably square in the bore. Brass punch is better but steel is OK if you're not too aggressive. Have seen several mechanics use this method also.

I've always just used the old one and a 2x4 seems to work good 4 me...a bit a tappin with a Bud nearby never hurt me...

A nice flat Hockey Puck, has worked just fine for me.
Tried it once out of desperation, and now, the hockey puck is part of my tool aresenal.

Thanks for the imput men. Looks like I don't need that installation toll after all. I'm going to drop the freezer idea and use what I've got on hand. I noticed that I did put two small nicks in the outer bearing bore when I removed the old race that I will deburr with my Dremel, and then I'm going go for it. A hockey puck? Now, why didn't think of that

Thanks again!
Lew

Lew - I just put modern bearings in my '50 AD and did not experience any problems. I was told by a representative from a bearing company to put the "clean" hubs in an oven at 250 degrees for 15-20 minutes and keep the races in the freezer over night. Even by heating one hub at a time and working fast, only two races dropped in, and the other two had to be pounded in via a hammer and the side of a short piece of a 2X4. I then used a short piece of brass rod and a hammer to make sure that the races were fully seated (by sight and by sound). Be sure to use the proper size cotter key or your spindle nut will be too loose. Good Luck

Denny:
Did you install "modern" tapered roller bearings? Were they the kind with the inner race made to match the old spindles? Some may have adapters to match the spindles to standard bearings. I been trying to find out which kind is best and where to find them. Thanks.

Splashoil - check the info and link on this thread

Bill

Splashoil:

I bought the roller bearings from American Classic Truck Parts in TX, and they were a perfect fit. They semed to have the best price. They were the MBS brand and did not need any adapters. I tried to find them locally using the part numbers posted on this board, but without any luck. To seat the new oil seal, I used an old race, a piece of a 2x4 and a hammer.

Well Buckeye it turns out that hockey pucks are a scarce item here in the mountains of Northern California so I had to go with the other suggestions. I polished the burrs out with crocus cloth, used the old races to get the new ones started, then a piece of hardwood and hammer to get 'em flush and set them in the rest of the way with a brass flat punch. Perfect.

Once again it was Stovebolters to the rescue!-- Saved me a trip down the mountain to find someone to do this for me. I'm likin'it alot! Thanks to everyone that responded.
Lew