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#224594 01/16/2007 12:46 AM
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Would like some feed back. I am putting new running boards on my 53 3100, should I paint,powder coat or Rhino Line them ? Thanks Don


Mr.Giant

1953 Chevrolet 3100 in the Gallery
1959 GMC 860 Single Axle Truck Tractor in the Gallery
#224595 01/16/2007 1:25 AM
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PErsonally, I'm gonna paint mine. The Rino-line look isn't for me, and powdercoating can't be touched up.


Everything is different now...
#224596 01/16/2007 1:33 AM
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I wouldn't powdercoat unless it was strictly a show vehicle.

Think about it: if the powdercoat gets a chip (stones, etc.), you can't touch it up and you can't remove it to get to any rust that may start traveling underneath it! It's a nightmare.

I just repainted mine:
See Here


~~ Alan Horvath
1954 Chevy Pickup
Singing his praises in the
Passing Lane
#224597 01/16/2007 1:34 AM
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If you want the original look, paint. If you want a paint-like look but more durable, powdercoat. If you want the most durable, rhinoline. My 38 is going to get a coat of epoxy primer, clearcoat black & repop runningboard mats.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
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Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
#224598 01/16/2007 2:22 AM
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Alan: Thanks for the link to your pics & text. They were great encouragement for a fix of a dent that is long overdue on a driver's side running board. The step pieces are a real nice addition.
Tomo

#224599 01/16/2007 2:25 AM
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You got it, Tomo. I'm really glad I put the step plates on, too ... they not only look great, but they keep that new paint from getting scratched.


~~ Alan Horvath
1954 Chevy Pickup
Singing his praises in the
Passing Lane
#224600 01/16/2007 2:28 AM
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I'd go with chrome.

#224601 01/16/2007 2:29 AM
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Chrome could be a real problem with rust!


~~ Alan Horvath
1954 Chevy Pickup
Singing his praises in the
Passing Lane
#224602 01/16/2007 4:49 AM
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It might be interesting to metalize them if you could find someone who has a gun.

#224603 01/16/2007 1:36 PM
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Just left your running board article, Alan, you do, do a good job!!!! Your articles are very encouraging. I'm an old timer returning to restoration now that I'm retired (been away from the hobby for 40years) and I really enjoy your documentation, nice looking truck and when you finished it will even be nicer.
I think you right, epoxy primer, paint and rubberized undercoat's the only way to go. I'm doing all the mechanicals this winter on my '50, which I bought in Sep,06. I'm also slipping in a few of the little body jobs that can be blasted or brushed/sanded and don't need chemical stripping. Like the running boards. under hood black parts, some interior like garnish, seat frame and seat kick panels, and heater housing. I'm planing a full frame up with Redi-Strip for the cab, clip, bed and frame this summer.
Thanks for the great pics.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
#224604 01/16/2007 1:53 PM
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Denny -- Ahh! You just got your truck 4 months ago! How exciting!!!

I just bought an old (but mint) Singer industrial sewing machine and I'm all excited about doing an all-original leather interior. What fun!


~~ Alan Horvath
1954 Chevy Pickup
Singing his praises in the
Passing Lane
#224605 01/16/2007 2:24 PM
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Powder coating will flake off. It can't hold up to the constant expansion and shrinkage of heating and cooling of the part. My take a couple of years. Not a good coating at all. Very overrated.

#224606 01/16/2007 3:52 PM
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Alan, what model Singer did you buy? I have a couple, both treadle one from the teens called a boot stitcher (model 29) was used for sewing harness and boots/shoes. The other is from the late 30's, a heavy duty industrial that can be run from treadle or a motor. It’s for sewing heavy fabric like upholstery. I had the same plans as you but I can't buy the material as cheaply as I can buy the upholstery kits. Since I want to go stock and the original kits are all over the place I’m gonna go that way for my 3604. Doing it yourself gives you the option of using any material, like "Moose hide"? and trying different things, plus the satisfaction of saying "I did it myself".
I still have to do some restoration on my stitchers, but I usually wait till the demand is there to rebuild something like that. Needed the Bridgeport mill so I rebuilt that a couple of years ago. I need the 16” Lodge & Shipley lathe now to turn the brake drums, so I’ll probably try to squeeze it in here some how, only the motor and wiring left to get it running.

You mentioned in another thread, can’t find it now, that the beaded weather strip you used on your window garnish came with the staples and a carbide drill, what size carbide drill did they send you and who was the vendor?? I would like to use the staples even though it is more of a problem installing them. Been working on a fixture to hold an Arrow stapler with and anvil inside the garnish to turn the staple legs. Don’t know if it will work till I try it. I might have to try and find an air operated stapler that I can mount to the fixture.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
#224607 01/17/2007 4:26 PM
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Hey, Denny

I bought the Singer 15-88 ... you can see it Here

It wont handle shoes or saddles ... that's a whole other setup ... but it's perfect for leather! It was built in Scotland in 1949 and is in mint condition!

PS - I dunno about the carbide bit size ... it came with the kit and I think I bought the kit from Chevy Duty (?) ... I don't recall.


~~ Alan Horvath
1954 Chevy Pickup
Singing his praises in the
Passing Lane
#224608 01/17/2007 5:36 PM
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I like using that stuff they use to line truck beds.. guess that would be the 'rhino line' stuff you're talking about.. altho I get my stuff in a 5 gallon jug from Home Depot and put it on myself.

Not only is the stuff tough as nails, but it gives you an added level of 'grip'.. since even ribbed original running boards can get slick.

BUT.. if you're not using your truck as a daily driver year round, then i'd go with paint.. but not regular auto paint, because that stuff isn't really designed to be stepped on.

I'm a huge fan of This stuff.

Not only is it bullet proof paint, but it's fade resistant, and stops any rust dead in its tracks.

I personally don't care for 'step plates'.. mostly because i've got size 12 feet and i use my trucks for work.. I have a hard enough time taking a leak without wizzin' on the rim of the bowl, i'd never be able to only step on the 'step plate'.


an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
#224609 01/17/2007 9:25 PM
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Fumblin, Thanks for that link on paint seems like tough paint for running boards DON


Mr.Giant

1953 Chevrolet 3100 in the Gallery
1959 GMC 860 Single Axle Truck Tractor in the Gallery
#224610 01/18/2007 2:21 AM
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Mr. Giant,

I'm going to have the bottom of my running boards coated with Line-X. I had the bed of my Ford F-250 (excuse me for using the F word) and it has been great. This stuff goes on smooth and is one of the most durable products I've seen. My fenders and floor board will also receive the same treatment.

Don


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But I tried, didn't I? ... At least I did that. RP McMurphy
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#224611 01/18/2007 2:44 AM
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We put 3M Shutz or other type coating on nearly every running board. Prevents scratching, not near as slippery, and looks good if just on the step area with the rest of the board body color. You can see some examples at http;//s32.photobucket.com/albums/d41/coilover/
The blue GMC has been that way for 30 years and if you scroll down page 2 to picture 018 there is a 54, and scroll down page 3 to dans49005 for another view.


Evan

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